Oris last month unveiled Artelier Caliber 113, the fourth in the company’s acclaimed series of 43mm manual-wind, long-power-reserve watches with in-house movements. This latest addition to the series was previewed well ahead of the March 23 start date for Baselworld 2017, where the watch officially debuts.
The new watch shares the same base architecture as Oris Calibers 110, 111 and 112, but instead of the GMT and day/night indicator seen on last year’s Caliber 112, this most recent iteration adds a pointer hand to indicate week and month and a small window on the dial to show the day. Oris calls this full set of indications a ‘business calendar.’
You may recall that three years ago Oris marked its 110th anniversary with Caliber 110, the first complete movement developed by Oris in nearly four decades. Oris then added two more watches in the series, all of which feature a ten-day power reserve, a non-linear power reserve indicator and a small seconds subdial.
Calibre 113 continues the series’ use of 43mm multi-piece stainless steel cases and clear sapphire casebacks. The latter allows wearers to enjoy a clear view of massive spring barrel that powers the caliber’s ten-day operating period, which (as usual for the series) is proudly displayed with an equally large power reserve indicator on the dial. Oris has engineered Caliber 113 so that using a single crown the wearer can operate all the calendar functions, as well as time setting and winding.
The watch will be available with an anthracite dial and a dark brown Louisiana crocodile leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet or a with an opaline silver dial on a grey, black or dark brown Louisiana crocodile leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. Price: $5,900.
About Oris: In 1904 at Hölstein Paul Cattin and Georges Christian established the Oris watch factory. Both come from the watch making capital Le Locle in the Swiss Jurassic region. Starting with just 24 workmen, they took over the recently closed down watch firm Lohner & Co. Oris' namesake is the name of a brook and a valley close to Hölstein in the north-western part of Switzerland.
The annual cherry blossom festivals that enliven botanical gardens across the country are still weeks away. Perhaps looking forward to the festivals’ colorful introduction to spring, Harry Winston has just debuted a glittering reminder to save time for a visit to the nearest botanical garden to enjoy the blooming of the sakura.
The Harry Winston Avenue Classic Cherry Blossom Timepiece re-creates a flowering cherry blossom tree on its rectangular green-blue mother-of-pearl dial. The firm’s artisans use the natural iridescence of the mother-of-pearl nacre to simulate clouds on a blustery spring day. Thirty-nine brilliant-cut white diamonds and twenty-nine pink sapphires represent the flowers and petals of the cherry blossom tree. A few of them are still attached to the tree’s white-gold branches while others are seen as they drop to the ground. The gemstones are cut in different sizes to create a sensation of depth and movement.
The 21.15mm by 36.1 mm watch, like those all found in Harry Winston’s Avenue collection, features a white gold case that recalls the firm’s New York store stone façade, but here it’s set with twenty-nine brilliant-cut diamonds. The letters HW at 12 o’clock on the dial are housed in an octagonal frame, as inspired by the emerald diamond cut, said to be a favorite of Harry Winston. A Swiss quartz movement powers the watch.
And there are more gems on the white gold buckle. Six diamonds there offset the green-blue alligator strap (which matches the color of the dial). Price: $37,900.
About Harry Winston Harry Winston timepieces combine the high quality craftsmanship of Harry Winston jewels with the time honored tradition of Swiss watchmaking.The Brand’s foray into fine timepieces in 1989 introduced a new creative dimension for the legendary House to explore. In 2007, Harry Winston opened a state of the art Manufacture in Geneva, the watchmaking capital of the world. The company’s watchmaking division upholds itself to the same flawless tradition of its legendary jewelry expertise. Harry Winston’s timepiece collections exude true authenticity and luxury, exemplified by fine design and careful manufacturing of complicated and gem-set watches.
G-Shock is known for a lot of things, but subtlety isn’t one of them. The Mudmaster GWG1000 does nothing to change this perception. In fact, it goes in the exact the opposite direction with its overtly masculine “Armored Tool Design” case and sturdy, textured rubber strap. Indeed, if any watch screams “manly” at the top if its lungs it’s the Mudmaster, but is it all bark and no bite? Let’s take a look.
The GWG1000 is part of G-Shock’s premium Master of G collection, which means, among other things that it rolls off Casio's state-of-the-art Yamagata assembly line in Japan. It also benefits from such high-end touches as a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a machined and engraved stainless steel caseback, textured stainless steel buttons and even a carbon fiber second hand, all of which help to justify its decidedly un-G-Shock-like price tag of $750.
For your money, you’re getting a lot more than just a tough watch. In addition to the usual features that we’ve all come to expect from Casio – stopwatch, countdown timer, multiple alarms, world time, atomic radio time syncing – you’re also getting a full suite of sensors which makes the GWG1000 a true “ABC” watch (ABC = altimeter, barometer, compass). Basically, everything you need to survive off the grid while shaving with a bowie knife (if you even bother shaving, that is), field dress deer and wrestle grizzly bears can now be worn on your wrist. It goes without saying that you can also use the GWG1000 for casual hiking, but that seems like a waste of its talents. Indeed, it probably does to G-Shock as well, who designed this particular Mudmaster with first responders in mind.
To this end, first and foremost, there’s the mud-resistant structure, which was introduced in 1985 with the now-iconic DW5500. That model, and the ones that followed covered the buttons in urethane to prevent the intrusion of dust and mud, but for the GWG1000 a different approach was used. All of the buttons on the Mudmaster, including the front light button, feature a double-gasket structure housed in stainless steel cylinders. Not only does this set up completely seal off the module within, but it also allows for a far more tactile feel when operating the functions. Add to this the generous knurling on the button surfaces, and you have a watch that can be used just as easily with heavy gloves on as without.
As for the module itself, it’s a “Tough MVT”, which in G-Shock lingo means that it’s encased within a hardened inner-case and enveloped in αGEL® (Alpha-Gel), a patented shock-absorbing material. This protects the movement from extreme vibrations and shock, and when coupled with its self-aligning hands, which can realign themselves automatically in the case of a particularly hard knock, you’ve got a proper ana-digi timepiece that can take whatever you can throw at it - and then some.
A key part of the module are the sensors which are now controlled by Casio’s third generation chip, the aptly named Triple Sensor v.3 which is an astounding 95% smaller than the first generation, and uses 90% less power. The reduced electrical requirements allow for a solar powered battery, while improvements in technology mean much faster and more granular sensor readings. To wit, the compass can now operate for a minute straight without resetting – prior to this, it was 20 seconds – while the altimeter now measures down to 1 meter, whereas before it was 5 meter increments. As someone who owns G-Shocks with the first two generation sensor chips, I can tell you unequivocally that these are practical improvements and make the watch much more effective in its given role. A particularly useful function is the barometer tendency alarm, which can be set to warn the wearer of the abrupt changes in air pressure that presage bad weather. Indeed, the watch accurately predicted a nor’easter that blew through the New York City area not that long ago. There’s also a thermometer, because why not, but in practice you have to take off your wrist for at least 20 minutes if you want an accurate reading, which makes it less than useful for on-the-fly readings. That said, if calibrated correctly, it is spot on.
Of course all of this is for naught if the end result winds up being completely unwearable and/or confusing to operate. Here’s where the Mudmaster truly shines. For all its outwardly macho posturing, the watch is supremely comfortable on the wrist. In spite of its size, it’s relatively lightweight, and thanks to the “wings” on the case back, which flow gently into the textured band, even those with small wrists will find it comfortable to wear. There’s a raised tab on the end of the strap that prevents the keeper from getting loose, and in spite of the semi-shrouded buttons, which mitigate accidental actuation, they remain easy to use.
From an operational standpoint, the GWG1000 features dedicated buttons for the dual LED backlight, compass and altimeter, which allows for quick spot checks of the readings, day or night. Even better, all adjustments can be made though the innovative screw-down Smart Crown, which works just like the crown on an analog watch, but in context depending on the mode that the watch is in; a bright red band warns the wearer to screw it back in after use.Another example of how G-Shock has clearly thought through the real world use and application of the Mudmaster functionality. If the hands happen to be blocking the digital readout, simply press two buttons in tandem and the hands swing smoothly out of the way for a clear view of the digital readout.
For a no-compromise watch, there are a few surprising omissions, however. There is no tide graph, moon phase or sunrise/sunset function. If you just want the sunrise/sunset info, you’ll have to step down to the all-digital Rangeman; if you want all three, you’ll have to step up to the Gulfmaster GWNQ1000, which also features a depth gauge, although, in the case of the latter, you will sacrifice the trick double-gasket buttons and mud-resistance in the bargain. Obviously, this fits with Casio’s positioning of the Master of G line, with the Gulfmaster correlating to the sea, while the Mudmaster is the land-based member of the family, we can see more than one scenario where a dedicated outdoorsman would have occasion to use some of these features inland. One minor complaint is that the countdown timer maxes out at just one hour, which is far too short, particularly when 24hr timers are a dime a dozen in G-Shock’s portfolio.
Still, when it comes to absolute toughness, there’s little use denying that the Mudmaster GWG1000 rules the G-Shock roost. Not only does it look the part, but it follows through with features galore, thoughtful ergonomics and all-day wearability that makes it a great companion for the outdoors. Sure, we’d like to see the addition of at least a sunrise/sunset function, but all things considered, if we were about to head off into the wild with nothing but a knife on our hip, a pack on our back and adventure in our hearts, the GWG1000 is the first watch we’d reach for.
In addition to the array of new options within its Rendez-Vous collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre at SIHH 2017 will add a flying tourbillon to its Geophysic Universal Time watch to create the new Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time.
You’ll recall that the original Geophysic model, sans tourbillon, hit the market two years ago as one of two Geophysic watches updated with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s newly developed deadbeat seconds function called True Seconds and the firm’s highly efficient Gyrolab balance.
This new 43.5mm Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time, offered as a limited edition of 100 cased in platinum, retains the picturesque Gyrolab balance within the tourbillon, but with the flying tourbillon ticking the seconds at the 4 o’clock position, a True Seconds hand on this model is redundant.
The watch’s richly finished dial (with blue guilloché for the oceans and satin-brushing for the continents) allows the wearer to read the time in twenty-four cities around the world simultaneously. Simply line up the city name with the hour on the ring adjacent to it. According to Jaeger-LeCoultre, this watch marks the first time a manufacturer has paired a flying tourbillon with a world time function.
The Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time is also easy to set using the single crown. While travelling, only the relevant hour needs to be adjusted to change time zones. Turning the watch over, enthusiasts will recognize the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo on the solid gold rotor as seen through a sapphire caseback. Pricing will be announced next week at the SIHH.
New Bracelets Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2017 will also update the bracelets available to fit the aforementioned Geophysic True Second and Geophysic Universal Time. An interchangeable steel bracelet will allow wearers to swap steel bracelet and a leather strap as desired with either model. Composed of five satin-brushed and polished links, this new bracelet is flexible and offers a new folding clasp with easy adjustment: the length of the bracelet can be extended up to five millimeters.
Specifications for Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time
MOVEMENT: · Automatic mechanical movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 948 · 28,800 vibrations per hour · 48-hour power reserve · 375 parts · 42 jewels · 11.24 mm in height · Oscillating weight in 22-karat pink gold
CASE: Convex shape, Blue guilloché for the oceans, Satin-brushed finish for the continents, Luminescent points on the flange
HANDS: Luminescent sword-shaped hands
FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, Flying tourbillon with seconds Universal time (24 time zones) Summer time indicator, 24-hour day/night indication, Setting the hour by one-hour jumps clockwise or anti-clockwise
CASE: 43.5mm platinum
Height: 14.87 mm, Water resistance: 5 bars, Sapphire case back
STRAP: Blue alligator-ski, Folding buckle in white gold
G-Shock is known for a lot of things, but subtlety isn’t one of them. The Mudmaster GWG1000 does nothing to change this perception. In fact, it goes in the exact the opposite direction with its overtly masculine “Armored Tool Design” case and sturdy, textured rubber strap. Indeed, if any watch screams “manly” at the top if its lungs it’s the Mudmaster, but is it all bark and no bite? Let’s take a look.
The GWG1000 is part of G-Shock’s premium Master of G collection, which means, among other things that it rolls off Casio's state-of-the-art Yamagata assembly line in Japan. It also benefits from such high-end touches as a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a machined and engraved stainless steel caseback, textured stainless steel buttons and even a carbon fiber second hand, all of which help to justify its decidedly un-G-Shock-like price tag of $750.
For your money, you’re getting a lot more than just a tough watch. In addition to the usual features that we’ve all come to expect from Casio – stopwatch, countdown timer, multiple alarms, world time, atomic radio time syncing – you’re also getting a full suite of sensors which makes the GWG1000 a true “ABC” watch (ABC = altimeter, barometer, compass). Basically, everything you need to survive off the grid while shaving with a bowie knife (if you even bother shaving, that is), field dress deer and wrestle grizzly bears can now be worn on your wrist. It goes without saying that you can also use the GWG1000 for casual hiking, but that seems like a waste of its talents. Indeed, it probably does to G-Shock as well, who designed this particular Mudmaster with first responders in mind.
To this end, first and foremost, there’s the mud-resistant structure, which was introduced in 1985 with the now-iconic DW5500. That model, and the ones that followed covered the buttons in urethane to prevent the intrusion of dust and mud, but for the GWG1000 a different approach was used. All of the buttons on the Mudmaster, including the front light button, feature a double-gasket structure housed in stainless steel cylinders. Not only does this set up completely seal off the module within, but it also allows for a far more tactile feel when operating the functions. Add to this the generous knurling on the button surfaces, and you have a watch that can be used just as easily with heavy gloves on as without.
As for the module itself, it’s a “Tough MVT”, which in G-Shock lingo means that it’s encased within a hardened inner-case and enveloped in αGEL® (Alpha-Gel), a patented shock-absorbing material. This protects the movement from extreme vibrations and shock, and when coupled with its self-aligning hands, which can realign themselves automatically in the case of a particularly hard knock, you’ve got a proper ana-digi timepiece that can take whatever you can throw at it - and then some.
A key part of the module are the sensors which are now controlled by Casio’s third generation chip, the aptly named Triple Sensor v.3 which is an astounding 95% smaller than the first generation, and uses 90% less power. The reduced electrical requirements allow for a solar powered battery, while improvements in technology mean much faster and more granular sensor readings. To wit, the compass can now operate for a minute straight without resetting – prior to this, it was 20 seconds – while the altimeter now measures down to 1 meter, whereas before it was 5 meter increments. As someone who owns G-Shocks with the first two generation sensor chips, I can tell you unequivocally that these are practical improvements and make the watch much more effective in its given role. A particularly useful function is the barometer tendency alarm, which can be set to warn the wearer of the abrupt changes in air pressure that presage bad weather. Indeed, the watch accurately predicted a nor’easter that blew through the New York City area not that long ago. There’s also a thermometer, because why not, but in practice you have to take off your wrist for at least 20 minutes if you want an accurate reading, which makes it less than useful for on-the-fly readings. That said, if calibrated correctly, it is spot on.
Of course all of this is for naught if the end result winds up being completely unwearable and/or confusing to operate. Here’s where the Mudmaster truly shines. For all its outwardly macho posturing, the watch is supremely comfortable on the wrist. In spite of its size, it’s relatively lightweight, and thanks to the “wings” on the case back, which flow gently into the textured band, even those with small wrists will find it comfortable to wear. There’s a raised tab on the end of the strap that prevents the keeper from getting loose, and in spite of the semi-shrouded buttons, which mitigate accidental actuation, they remain easy to use.
From an operational standpoint, the GWG1000 features dedicated buttons for the dual LED backlight, compass and altimeter, which allows for quick spot checks of the readings, day or night. Even better, all adjustments can be made though the innovative screw-down Smart Crown, which works just like the crown on an analog watch, but in context depending on the mode that the watch is in; a bright red band warns the wearer to screw it back in after use.Another example of how G-Shock has clearly thought through the real world use and application of the Mudmaster functionality. If the hands happen to be blocking the digital readout, simply press two buttons in tandem and the hands swing smoothly out of the way for a clear view of the digital readout.
For a no-compromise watch, there are a few surprising omissions, however. There is no tide graph, moon phase or sunrise/sunset function. If you just want the sunrise/sunset info, you’ll have to step down to the all-digital Rangeman; if you want all three, you’ll have to step up to the Gulfmaster GWNQ1000, which also features a depth gauge, although, in the case of the latter, you will sacrifice the trick double-gasket buttons and mud-resistance in the bargain. Obviously, this fits with Casio’s positioning of the Master of G line, with the Gulfmaster correlating to the sea, while the Mudmaster is the land-based member of the family, we can see more than one scenario where a dedicated outdoorsman would have occasion to use some of these features inland. One minor complaint is that the countdown timer maxes out at just one hour, which is far too short, particularly when 24hr timers are a dime a dozen in G-Shock’s portfolio.
Still, when it comes to absolute toughness, there’s little use denying that the Mudmaster GWG1000 rules the G-Shock roost. Not only does it look the part, but it follows through with features galore, thoughtful ergonomics and all-day wearability that makes it a great companion for the outdoors. Sure, we’d like to see the addition of at least a sunrise/sunset function, but all things considered, if we were about to head off into the wild with nothing but a knife on our hip, a pack on our back and adventure in our hearts, the GWG1000 is the first watch we’d reach for.
With a black dial, contrasting red seconds hand and a tachymeter, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Sport I becomes this German brand’s first truly sporty model within its previously casual/dress Teutonia collection. The new watch, a preview of Mühle-Glashütte’s 2017 Baselworld debuts, underscores the brand’s ability to create functional watches with distinctive designs, most of which also notably feature a healthy dose of customized base-caliber enhancement.
The Teutonia Sport I is a 42.6mm steel-cased chronograph with three light-grey-edged subdials that allow them to stand out quite visibly against the dark dial. Mühle-Glashütte enhances the sportiness of this layout and dial display by surrounding it with the aforementioned tachymeter, clearly marked with red-tinged markers and numerals. The tachymeter allows the wearer to calculate speed over a distance of 1,000 meters at a glance.
As is always the case with Mühle-Glashütte watches, the caliber here receives a customized –and patented – in-house developed woodpecker neck regulation, a Glashütte three-quarter plate, a special rotor embellishment and characteristic Glashütte surface finishes. Hence, for this watch Mühle-Glashütte transforms the Sellita SW 500 base chronograph movement to create MU 9413.
Mühle-Glashütte notes that all its watches meet German chronometer standards, but with a specialized flourish: Mühle-Glashütte regulates its calibers so that they are always slightly fast and maintain a precision of between 0 and a maximum of +8 seconds per day. Why? “This enables us to ensure that Mühle watch wearers are never too late because of their time measuring instruments,” the company explains in its product literature.
Water resistant to 100 meters, the Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Sport I will arrive on a water-resistant red and black leather/rubber strap. Price: 3,390 euros (about $3,570, though U.S price not yet officially determined.)
Specifications: Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia Sport I
Movement: MU 9413, automatic (Base Sellita SW500) with patented woodpecker neck regulation, Glashütte three-quarter plate, own rotor and characteristic surface finishes. Stop-second, fast date correction and 48-hour power reserve.
Case: 42.6mm by15.5mm brushed/polished stainless steel. bi-directional bezel, domed and double anti-glare sapphire crystal, transparent case back, screw-in crown. Water-resistant to 100 meters.
Strap: Waterproof leather/rubber strap with a stainless steel pin buckle. Screwed strap attachment bridges.
Dial: Black with applied indices; hour indices and hands coated in Super LumiNova.
About Mühle Glashütte Founded in 1869 in Glashutte, the company initially manufactured precision measuring instruments for the local watch industry and the watchmakers’ school, making an important contribution to Glashutte’s good reputation as the center of the German watchmaking industry. The wristwatches produced today stand out due to their clarity of display, functionality and high precision. Muhle Glashutte has been devoted to accurate measurement for over 140 years, and has been focusing on nautical instruments, marine chronometers and mechanical wristwatches since 1994.
Eterna this week debuts a bronze-cased timepiece to mark the 70th anniversary of KonTiki, Thor Heyerdahl’s famed cross-Pacific expedition. About a decade after the Norwegian explorer made his journey in 1947 with five Eterna timepieces on board his minimally equipped raft, this Swiss watchmaker launched a watch bearing the KonTiki name.
This year, for the first time, Eterna endows the KonTiki with a bronze case and in a 44mm limited edition of 300 pieces.
In the past few years, we’ve seen a number of bronze cases introduced into watch collections, but given the specific nautical nature of the KonTiki heritage, Eterna’s entry seems right on target. Bronze resists salt water and thanks to its ability to oxidize and create a greenish/brown copper oxide layer (patina) the case is protected from the elements.
Of course, given Eterna’s rich history in the development of the modern automatic movement it also is appropriate that this watch is equipped with a version of Eterna’s own in-house Caliber 39. Eterna’s role in watchmaking history culminates in 1948 when the brand revolutionized the automatic movement by equipping it with a rotor that turned on ball bearings. Named the Eterna-Matic, the system has become a standard feature in automatic movements today. (You can read more about Eterna movements here: eterna.com.
The Caliber 39 inside this watch features Eterna’s own 2006 update of that rotor technology, which replaces steel ball bearings with ceramic ball bearings, a development dubbed Spherodrive. Calibre 39 is now the base movement for more than eighty-eight different Eterna movement references.
The KonTiki Bronze Manufacture features a black granite-patterned dial with triangular luminescent hour markers. Its quite bold unidirectional rotating bezel frames the dial with a decompression gauge. The bezel markers do not indicate time under water, but rather the amount of time a diver can spend at a particular depth before he or she will need to decompress.
Fortunately, a buyer of this watch will not have to gasp for breath due to a high price tag: Each watch in this 300-piece limited edition will sell for a more-than-reasonable $2,650.
Specifications: Eterna KonTiki Bronze Manufacture
MOVEMENT Caliber Maison Eterna 3902A, 65-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph, with hours, minutes, seconds
CASE 44mm brushed bronze, 14.05mm thick, rotating black ceramic bezel, case back secured with screw down case back in stainless steel. Sapphire crystal opening
Just weeks after releasing its show-stopping Aquapod, MB&F last week updated its Legacy Machine No. 2 (LM2) with a lighter (titanium) and slightly thinner case, a stunning new dial color and a few cosmetic alterations.
You’ll recall that the original LM2 debuted in 2013 with a choice of a red gold, white gold and platinum case. We told you all about it here.
This latest version of the LM2 is a limited edition of eighteen pieces made of grade 5 titanium (a titanium Ti-6Al-4V alloy) and a blue-green dial (which is actually the movement’s top plate). If that slightly metallic sheen looks familiar, it’s because the color was obtained using the same CVD (chemical vapor deposition) technique MB&F used for last year’s LM1 M.A.D. Dubai.
But there are more changes beyond the dial/top plate hue and the case material. The watch’s dramatic dual “flying” balance wheels are now secured by rounded, mirror polished bridges rather than the hollowed and brushed arcs seen on the earlier examples. Likewise, the bezel is polished, which serves to better reflect the almost iridescent blue-green dial. And finally, using titanium to encase the exquisite movement made by Jean-François Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, MB&F shaved a full millimeter from the thickness of the watch.
The remainder of the watch retains its retro-futuristic architecture. At the top of the dial you’ll find the familiar white lacquer subdial with blued gold hour and minute hands, both balanced visually by the raised differential at 6 o'clock. Flanking this are the two flying independent balances and their escapements, dramatically towering over the stage.
Recall that these balances each beat at their own rate while the planetary differential below continuously averages out these two rates to feed power to the hands. The MB&F LM2 continues to be a horological tour de force, here presented in a pleasing new limited edition of eighteen. Price: $138,000
SPECIFICATIONS: MB&F Legacy Machine No 2 Titanium (Legacy Machine N°2 Ti is a limited edition of 18 pieces in a titanium Ti-6Al-4V alloy case.)
Movement: Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon at Chronode, and Kari Voutilainen. Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Differential: Planetary differential comprising 3 gears and 5 pinions
Balance wheels: Two bespoke 11mm balance wheels with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating with stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 241
Number of jewels: 44. Superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; polished internal bevel angles highlighting handcraft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; gold chatons with polished countersinks; hand-made engravings
Functions: Hours and minutes, Planetary differential transmits the average rate of the two regulators to the single gear train.
Case: Titanium Ti-6Al-4V alloy (grade 5)
Dimensions: 44 mm x 19 mm
Number of components: 41
Water resistance: 30 meters
Sapphire crystals: High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Strap & Buckle: Black hand-stitched alligator strap with titanium tang buckle.
About MB&F After two decades of experience in haute horology, Maximilian Büsser concluded that he most enjoyed the projects in which he had the privilege of working with talented independent watchmakers on exciting concept watch projects. Büsser created MB&F - Maximilian Büsser & Friends – an atelier dedicated solely to designing, developing and crafting a small series of radical concept watches with talented professionals and friends. MB&F is not a watch brand, it is an artistic community and micro-engineering concept laboratory in which a changing collective of horological professionals are assembled to design and craft radical Horological Machines.
Two years after TAG Heuer unveiled a skeletonized Carrera Heuer-01 with an in-house chronograph caliber and a nice price (currently $5,300), the Swiss watch company plans to expand the Carrera collection with three slightly smaller versions of that earlier watch, each available on a leather strap or on a steel bracelet. A full black ceramic edition, not yet pictured, will also be added to the collection.
At Baselworld 2017 TAG Heuer will debut the Carrera Heuer-01 43mm, with, as the name suggests, a smaller case diameter of 43mm and in a choice of hues: black, navy blue and cognac brown. These are not the first 43mm Carreras with the Heuer-01 chronograph caliber inside, but they are the first 43mm models with skeletonized cases.
The in-house column-wheel chronograph caliber Heuer-01 is here set into a modular case (also made in-house) that retains the contemporary skeleton design of the larger models but replaces the earlier steel tachymeter bezels with ceramic bezels. The new bezels appear to be just a bit thinner than those on the 45mm model. The new color options, seen primarily on the new bezels, also extend to the small seconds counter, the inner flange, the logo and the date window.
The new polished ceramic bezel nicely contrasts with the satin-finished twelve-part modular case. Indeed, the modular nature of the case, influenced by its LVMH cousins at Hublot, allows TAG Heuer to vary the case’s overall design.
Consider this new model as only the latest example of how TAG Heuer can, and likely will, continue to develop options within this contemporary Carrera collection. TAG Heuer has already indicated that we’ll see a black ceramic-cased version of this 43mm model during Baselworld.
As a skeletonized model, the Carrera Heuer-01 43 mm allows its chronograph operating levers and date disc to be viewed from the dial side. The color red identifies all of the movement's chronograph functions, including the central seconds, the 30-minute counter, the 12-hour counter and the start/stop pusher. Through the clear sapphire caseback the wearer can eye the red column wheel, the skeleton chronograph bridge and circular black PVD rotor. Prices: Starting at $4,950.
SPECIFICATIONS: TAG Heuer CARRERA Heuer-01 43 mm
Movement TAG Heuer Calibre HEUER-01, Manufacture movement, automatic chronograph with date, visible skeleton date disc with window at 3:30, red column wheel, new skeleton weight and chronograph bridge, 50-hour power reserve
Case 43mm brushed steel or ceramic for all-black model, matte ceramic fixed bezel in blue, brown or black ceramic with tachymeter scale, steel or matte black ceramic horns, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, crown in rubber and polished steel, or covered in black PVD, steel or black PVD-covered steel chronograph push-buttons at 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock, steel or black PVD-covered steel sapphire case-back
Dial Blue, brown or black skeleton dial Blue, brown or black flange with 60-second scale.
3 Counters: • Chronograph minute counter at 12o'clock with rhodium-plated snailed ring and red lacquered hand • Chronograph hour counter at 6o'clock with rhodium-plated snailed ring and red lacquered hand • Small seconds counter at 9 o'clock with blue, brown or black snailed ring and polished, rhodium-plated hand. • Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and indices with white Superluminova, red small seconds hand, polished rhodium-plated "TAG Heuer" logo at 3 o'clock. • Inscription of "CARRERA HEUER 01 CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC"
Water-resistance: 100 meters
Strap/bracelet Black rubber and brown or blue alligator, or black rubber, or H-shaped bracelet in steel Steel or grade 2 titanium folding buckle covered in black PVD with safety push buttons and TAG Heuer logo.
References CAR201T.BA0766: blue dial and steel bracelet CAR201T.FC6404: blue dial and blue leather strap CAR201U.BA0766: brown dial and steel bracelet CAR201U.FC6405: brown dial and brown leather strap CAR201V.BA0766: black dial and steel bracelet CAR201V.FT6087: black dial and black rubber strap CAR2090.BH0729: black full ceramic (not pictured)
About TAG Heuer: For more than 150 years, TAG Heuer has faced down every challenge, and then pushed past it. By defying the time-honored conventions of Swiss watchmaking, it has led it to ever higher levels of precision and performance. It makes its own rules, chooses its own path, never quits moving forward, never compromises, never cracks under pressure.
The newest Ball Watch debut tweaks the brand’s micro gas tube technology just a bit. On the dial of new Ball Engineer III King, a three-hand, day-date watch, Ball uses both thick and thin tritium-filled micro gas tubes, creating a brilliant multi-level effect for a viewer who reads the dial in dark.
Specifically, the Ball Engineer III King features 1mm-thick micro gas tubes to illuminate every hour marker, including the multi-tube 12 and 6 numerals. The minute markers are lit with 0.3mm x 2mm thin gas tubes. The self-powered gas tubes last for twenty-five years and they do not require recharging from the sun nor do they drain the watch’s power reserve.
In addition to this new gas tube layout, Ball’s watch includes DuraLock, a new in-house winding crown and sealing system that Ball says will enhance the effectiveness of the crown’s moisture and dust seal.
And as with most Ball Watch models, the Engineer III King is protected against shock with another Ball-developed technique called Amortiser. The design absorbs impact with a protective, anti-magnetic ring that runs around the movement. The ring itself helps shield the watch against magnetism to 80,000 A/m, among the strongest anti-magnetic protection levels we’ve seen inside a wristwatch at this price range. The case protects the ETA-based Ball automatic caliber BALL RR1102.
The Ball Engineer III King will be available in 40mm or 43mm diameter sizes with a choice of stainless steel or stainless steel with black titanium carbide coating case, black or blue dial, calf leather strap or stainless steel bracelet. Also, an extra NATO strap will be available ($65).Online orders offer the option of a personalized engraving on the back of the case.
Pre-orders for the watch, priced starting from $1,159 to $1,199, are available now until April 12. The Ball Engineer III King will be officially available at a full retail price starting at approximately $1,950 beginning this September.
About Ball Watch Known for crafting chronometers, Cleveland watchmaker Webster Clay Ball was appointed chief time inspector to the federal railroads. Here, Ball performed timing tests on all railway watches and implemented a time standardization system. The Ball standard became so well known that in 1973 the Swiss society of chronometry based its COSC certification system on many of Ball’s recommendations and still applies them today. More than a century after that railway incident, Ball Watch is at the height of its popularity and its name remains synonymous with accuracy and dependability.
Bremont co-founders Giles and Nick English started their decidedly British watch company fifteen years ago with a series of pilot chronographs. And despite various ventures into the somewhat related nautical world with dive watches, and an ongoing relationship with the high-profile America’s Cup yacht competition, Bremont is at its core, and at its best, a proud proponent of aviation that creates watches for pilots and would-be pilots.
This year Bremont expands its deep link to aviation with AIRCO, a two-model collection of dressy pilot watches that, as Nick English explains, “really wouldn’t have looked out of place in the cockpit of a Spitfire or Hurricane during a Battle of Britain dogfight.”
AIRCO, named after the ‘Aircraft Manufacturing Company Limited’, one of the first British military aircraft manufacturers, features 40mm watches made with Bremont’s well-known three-piece ‘Trip-Tick ’ cases (produced at the company’s facilities in the United Kingdom). These watches join Bremont’s lineup as England’s Royal Air Force gears-up to celebrate its centenary next year.
Look for two AIRCO models: the AIRCO MACH 1 and the AIRCO MACH 2. The former boasts a satin finished case, a military inspired black dial with a red seconds hand and comes on a vintage brown calf leather strap, NATO strap or steel bracelet.
The second model, the dressier of the two debuts, polishes its case, hands and applied numerals, brightens the dial with anthracite rather than black, and eschews the red seconds hand. This watch will be sold on a black calf leather strap, NATO strap or steel bracelet. Inside each AIRCO watch is Bremont’s chronometer-rated BE-92AE, an ETA-based automatic chronometer fitted with Bremont’s own decorated rotor.
AIRCO joins a full roster of Bremont watches with serious links to flying and the aviation, including the Spitfire-based Bremont EP120 and the Mustang-based Bremont P51 limited editions; the MBI and MBII models made in conjunction with U.K.-based ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker; the Wright Flyer limited editions containing actual wing fabric from the Wright flyer and several recent debuts made in conjunction with Boeing. AIRCO Prices, as seen on the Bremont website, start at $3,895 for strap models.
More Bremont debuts AIRCO was Bremont’s only full collection debuted as the firm showed a host of 2017 models in London this week during a launch event the brand organized in lieu of displaying at Baselworld this year. But in addition to the new collection, Bremont is making substantive enhancements to many of its existing collections. Here are a few highlights.
The firm’s dive model, the Supermarine, now includes its first 40mm versions (the original Supermarine is 43mm) with this collection. The new models are Supermarine Type 300 and a vintage-style Supermarine Type 301. The new 40mm case used for the new models is also slimmer (at 13mm) while the case features a unidirectional ceramic rotating bezel. Prices (all prices listed as seen on Bremont’s website): $4,095 (strap) and $4,695 (bracelet). The calf leather strap is particularly nice for the Type 301.
The ALT1-P, which celebrates its tenth anniversary in the Bremont lineup, now has new dials and hands and is housed in tweaked case design, which remains 43mm in diameter. Look for a new cream-colored dial version. Prices start at $5,195 for the ALT1-P.
Bremont adds to SOLO 32 Ladies chronometer collection with two 32mm rose gold models. Prices for the gold-cased watches: $10,495
Shifting to road racing, Bremont continues its hot partnership with Jaguar with its new Jaguar MKII White. This new white-dialed counterpart to the existing 43mm Bremont Jaguarrange incorporates very similar design features of the MKII with a black dial, but with a new internal tachymeter dial ring. Price: $5,195.
Bremont will launch its third Regatta movement with the Regatta AC II, made in a limited edition of 135 pieces ($6,495). In addition, a beautiful rose gold AC 35 model, made in a limited run of 35 watches, will mark the upcoming 35th America’s Cup. The AC35 incorporates Bremont’s proprietary BWC movement and is inspired by the legendary J-Class yachts of the 1930s. Price: $22,495.
Bremont announces that it will team once again with British motorcycle brand Norton and has created two Norton-inspired chronographs to complement the Norton SG6 race bike. Two watches will be made: a limited edition V4SS and the V4RR ($7,295). The former is being made available to owners of the Norton V4SS machines. It combines numerals similar to the classic Norton typeface with gold chronograph borders and a gold Norton logo.
Six weeks ago the Baume & Mercier Clifton Club joined the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control and Montblanc’s newest Timewalker as the most-discussed ‘affordable’ collections among the higher-end debuts shown during SIHH 2017 in Geneva.
Continuing the already successful Clifton series, these newest Clifton Club watches offer 42mm steel cases with a horn-to-horn bevel that runs around the case and echoes the curves of the watch. Rather than the dressy, single-functions Cliftons of previous years, these new models are decidedly sporty with black, white or blue dials and 100-meters of water resistance.
The Clifton Club is available in five versions. The first two options feature polished/satin-finished stainless steel cases with black or white dials and an impressive calfskin strap with an embossed sailcloth-like fabric lined with orange rubberized calfskin.
There are also two Clifton Clubs with a polished/satin-finished stainless steel
case (black or blue dial) with a steel, three-row bracelet boasting a fine adjustment mechanism. Lastly, there is an all-black version with a black dial, stainless steel case with a black sand-blasted ADLC coating (amorphous diamond-like
carbon, a hard coating) and an integrated black vulcanized rubber strap. All Clifton Club watches feature a Sellita automatic SW200 movement. Prices start at $1,950.
Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Peter Brock, designer of the famed Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe, joined Baume & Mercier Design Director Alexandre Peraldi to create this newest Shelby collection, called Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Limited Editions.
The resulting two designs nicely capture the Daytona’s aerodynamic shape while also conveying the spirit of the Shelby livery. You can see it clearly in the clean lines of the 44mm case made in polished/satin-finished steel, or steel and titanium. At the center is a dial created by Brock that echoes the colors of the Daytona Coupe. The dial is offered in a choice of Daytona blue, silver-colored, or half blue/half silver-colored to mirror the split Shelby racing stripes on the Daytona’s flat tail, created to allow easy identification during races.
These Clifton Club Shelby Cobra Limited Editions are available as a 1,964-piece chronograph limited edition ($4,450) in tribute to the first official race of the Daytona Coupe or 196-piece flyback chronograph numbered limited edition ($7,950) to celebrate the CSX2299’s speed record of 196 MPH in 1964. The latter is powered by an automatic La Joux-Perret 8147-2 movement with flyback chronograph function while the wider release utilizes an ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. All timepieces in the Clifton Club Shelby Cobra collection arrive to its owner with a 1:43 scale model of the Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe and a printed history of the racecar.
About Baume & Mercier Baume & Mercier began when Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume opened a comptoir horloger boutique in Les Bois, a village in the Swiss Jura in 1830. The enterprise grew quickly, earning a reputation for carrying some of the most innovative horological creations of the time. Surrounded by excellence, the brother’s business blossomed into what today is one of the most recognized watch brands in the world.
If you think only of sturdy, masculine and purposeful watches when you think of Hysek, it’s probably time to take another look. Kalysta, which was first introduced last year and is now in stores, takes a much more feminine approach to timekeeping, and it is Hysek’s first collection of mechanical and quartz, jeweled timepieces for women. Hysek plans to add new Kalysta models at Baselworld 2017.
“Kalysta was first available in our boutiques at the end of 2016, and the immediate reaction was really positive, says Hysek CEO M. A. Aljord. “It was the first time Hysek worked on a lady-specific collection; its universe has always been very masculine, assertive. We had to re-invent our aesthetical codes, to make way for curved lines and slimmer cases,” he continues.
The new-ish Kalysta, which is the Greek word for “fairest” or “most beautiful,” is nothing if not feminine. The jumping hour version (jumping hours, I must admit, are a favorite of mine) marks the hours via a window at 12 o’clock, while a marquise-cut sapphire travels the perimeter of the decorated dial to mark the passing minutes. The bezelglows withsnow-set diamonds.
“At Hysek, we think women are more sensitive to creative touches than to mechanical sophistication, this is why we have thought first and foremost in terms of emotion,” explains Aljord. “The choice of this particular type of setting – the snow setting [on the bezel] – is, by the way, no coincidence, as it comes from a more jeweled approach than the traditional stone setting more commonly seen in watchmaking.”
But I am convinced that I am not alone in my pursuit of fine mechanics in a ladies watch, which adds complexity to its overall feminine aesthetics. And the mechanical version of Kalysta fills the bill, with its self-winding mechanical movement with jumping hours.
“Hysek has a long tradition in developing jumping hours complications,” says Aljord. “In 2009, the Maison proposed a first model for men, and a Fine Watchmaking version combining [jumping hours] with a central tourbillon was launched in 2015. For Kalysta, the jumping hours complication has been re-invented in a more poetic way, using the absence of hands to introduced an even more decorative way to read time.”
New in 2017 There are several interpretations of Kalysta at this time, and more are slated to be introduced at Baselworld later this month.
The Exotic Tale and Heaven’s Tale versions, crafted in rose gold or titanium, are augmented by Twinkling Tale versions, which are quartz. The stone setting isnot realizedin-house but is expertlyaccomplishedby one of Hysek'skey partners in La-Chaux-de-Fond, Switzerland, selected for its exceptional work,according to Aljord. Hysek watch sales are expected to be 60 percent mechanical and 40 percent quartz.
“Whether we are talking about a beautiful, set watch case, a delicate hand engraving on a dial or the complex mechanics of a caliber, the most important [goal] will always be to arouse emotion,” says Aljord.
About Hysek Manufacture Hysek now designs and produces watches, jewellery, writing implements and accessories. With products distributed in over 50 countries, Hysek can boast an international reputation and exposure.
Alpina in the 1960s made many dive watches. And one of its best-known examples, at least in Switzerland, was a masculine model called Seastrong. This year Alpina connects its modern corporate identity with that historic design by creating the Seastrong Horological Smartwatch.
You’ll recall that Alpina and its Geneva-based sibling Frederique Constant two years ago were among the pioneering Swiss watch companies to offer a smartwatch alongside their full collections of Swiss mechanical and quartz wristwatches. Teaming with Swiss firm Manufacture Modules Technologies (MMT), the two brands each debuted their own smartwatches with decidedly classical, analog dials.
This year Alpina give its smartwatch technology a sporty costume, specifically a dive suit. The result may be the first digitally connected wristwatch that looks like a dive watch, and, with its true dive watch specifications, acts like a dive watch. True dive-ready features include 100 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional diver bezel, luminous hands, indexes and markers for high visibility under water, and a rubber strap.
As a smartwatch, however, the new 44mm steel Alpina Seastrong Horological Smartwatch (set to debut at Baselworld 2017) also offers activity tracking and sleep monitoring and features various other functions such as dynamic coaching, 24-hour worldtimer, automatic adjustment via smartphone when changing time zone, as numerous notifications and alerts.
As a bonus, Alpina has idiot-proofed the Seastrong Horological Smartwatch. If the watch is lost, the data can be easily recovered, since the measurements are automatically stored in an independent cloud for thirty days without need for sync with a smartphone.
The collection features four models on rubber straps, each sporting a different bezel color: black, green, orange and navy blue. Price: $595.
Specifications for the Alpina Seastrong Horological Smartwatch
Movement MMT-282-1 Horological Smartwatch caliber, powered by a battery providing more than four years’ autonomy.
Case 44mm fiberglass and steel, black, green, orange or navy blue unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel. Crown serving to adjust all functions. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial Black or blue. Luminescent hands and hour-markers.
Bracelet/strap Black, green or blue rubber.
About Alpina Anindependent, family-owned fine watchmaking manufacture based in Geneva,Switzerland, Alpina was founded in 1883. For 132 years, Alpina has acted as a pioneer of theSwiss watchmaking industry with a multitude of innovations and patents. As the inventor of the modern sport watch, the brand continues its adventurous spirit through special initiatives incorporating both the professional explorer community and the adventurous watch enthusiast.
With a carbon fiber main plate, the Angelus U21 and U22 Tourbillons extend an Angelus story that started last year with the Angelus U20. Like that much-acclaimed skeletonized tourbillon, with its blue titanium bridges and sapphire mainplate, these two new Angelus watches emphasize high-tech materials, open architecture and a minimalistic approach to presenting complicated watchmaking.
New this year, however, is an even stronger dose of contemporary design, if that’s possible with a piece like this. By using the aforementioned carbon fiber plates on both new models, Angelus also emphasizes lightweight design (especially with the titanium-cased U22 Tourbillon, which weights less than 54 grams), though I suspect this is more a notable byproduct of using such material rather than Angelus’s aim here.
Primarily, Angelus wants us to marvel at the streamlined design and ‘structural optimization’ of these two new limited-edition (18 pieces) executions. And with no bezels on either model, every essential gear and bridge is plainly visible, even when viewing the dial from the side (thanks to the domed sapphire crystal.)
This transparency is essentially because Angelus says it has built this movement as a showpiece. Each watch presents an almost instructional mechanical portrait showing how bridges hold gears that then propel hands via the mesmerizing actions of a tourbillon.
That tourbillon features a variable inertia balance wheel Angelus has designed to minimize air friction. And the patterned carbon fiber used in the main plate is built for strength, offering maximum rigidity. Notably visible from the back, the caliber’s ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. All components are hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that their haute appearance echoes their smart engineering.
The U21 Tourbillon does this with the assistance of warm gold. The bezel-free carbon fiber central case/plate element here features polished and satin-brushed 18-karat red gold lugs and red gold skeletonized bridges. To further enhance legibility, Angelus fills the hands with white SuperLumiNova.
The U22 Tourbillon is a bit sportier. While it features a carbon fiber/titanium case (like the original U20) that allows Angelus to boast about its light weight, The U22 dial is easily the bolder of the two new models. Unlike the U21, the flange ring on this model is set with satin-finished applied indexes for the hour markers. The red SuperlumiNova central hands extend the racier look.
We look forward to seeing these two new Angelus skeleton tourbillon watches in person, especially as guided by Angelus design guru Sébastien Chaulmontet (who also happens to be in charge of movement design at Arnold & Son) at the upcoming Baselworld 2017.
Prices: Angelus U21 Tourbillon: $52,200. Angelus U22 Tourbillon: $37,995. Each is a made as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.
Angelus U21 Tourbillon Technical Specifications:
Features and Indications Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and gold bridges
Movement and Finishing Caliber: Angelus A-250, manual winding with flying tourbillon, NPT carbon-fiber main plate and solid 18-karat red gold bridges Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons Diameter: 32.60 mm Height: 5.78 mm Power reserve: 90 hours Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hb Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design Escapement: Swiss lever Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished Movement finishing: Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Satin finished with chamfered and polished edges solid 18-karat red gold bridges
Dial Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement’s main plate Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with white SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case Material: NPT carbon fiber and 18-karat red gold Diameter: 42 mm Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo Back: Sapphire display back Distance between lugs: 21 mm Water resistance: 30 meters Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert Buckle: 18-karat red gold pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo
Angelus U22 Tourbillon Technical Specifications: Features and Indications: Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges
Movement and Finishing Caliber: Angelus A-250, manual winding with flying tourbillon, NPT carbon-fiber main plate and titanium bridges Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons Diameter: 32.60 mm Height: 5.78 mm Power reserve: 90 hours Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design Escapement: Swiss lever Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished Movement finishing: Haute horlogerie, all steel components have hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces are mirror-polished or satin-finished. Chamfered and sand blasted titanium bridges.
Dial Material: NPT carbon-fiber dial is actually the movement main plate Hour and minute markings: Printed spokes on outer chapter ring and satin finished indexes Hour and minute hands: Rhodium-treated with red SuperLumiNova blue emission
Case Material: NPT carbon fiber and titanium Diameter: 42 mm Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo Back: Sapphire display back Distance between lugs: 21 mm Water resistance: 30 meters Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle Material: Stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert Buckle: Titanium, pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo
For years Peter Speake-Marin’s watch designs have drawn collectors in search of original design and technically impressive watchmaking.
Since 2008, the British -born, Swiss-trained watchmaker has focused his creative watchmaking solely on his own eponymous brand, at first developing his signature large-crown Piccadilly, but adding today’s slightly thinner Resilience models, new watches for women and numerous emblematic designs. In recent years Speake-Marin has debuted a host of artistically tinged collections known as Spirit (British military designs), J-Class (nautically influenced models) and Cabinet des Mysteres, wherein Speake-Marin regularly debuts limited editions emphasizing unusual dials and imaginative complications.
Within the latter collection, Speake-Marin at SIHH 2017 added Crazy Skulls, an appropriately named 42mm titanium watch with two aluminum skulls merged to form a single heart on its dial. When the wearer activates a slider at 9 o’clock, the two skulls separate and a Speak-Marin tourbillon emerges from beneath. These two moving skulls are not the only action set into motion by moving the slider: as the skulls separate to display the tourbillon, a minute repeater carillon chimes to musically celebrate the event with a medieval tune.
At the same time, the two Roman numerals of the 12 fall apart on the dial, symbolizing the despair of the two lovers (whose united skull/heart has split). Then, just as the hammers strike three gongs, the heart is reunited and the Roman numerals are reconstructed to read XII.
As a result, Crazy Skulls combines skulls, broken hearts and medieval music together in one watch. Finally.
Brown Serpent While the Crazy Skulls will be made as a limited edition of only two pieces (with an option of black or grey skulls), Speake-Marin also added several new models for slightly wider release during the show.
One of those was a newer update of the popular Serpent profile, which Speake-Marin had previously redesigned, altering the dial, the case and the hands. This year, Speake-Marin also adds a brown snailing hours chapter ring and, per its name, an oversized calendar indication.
And, in an interesting (and literal) twist that I haven’t seen anywhere else, Speake-Marin has offset the large calendar date ring. Rather than ending and re-starting the date ring at the top or bottom of the dial, Speake-Marin twists it to start and end at the 1.30 position.
The remainder of the watch echoes the Serpent collection with a multi-layered, bright white dial set into a 42mm titanium Piccadilly case.
The Serpent Calendar indicates central hours and minutes with Speake-Marin-style blued hands and the date with a golden sculptured Speake-Marin calendar hand.
As with the other Serpent models, the new Brown Serpent calendar is equipped with a Vaucher 3002 automatic movement. The new Brown Serpent Calendar is a limited edition of 28 watches.
Specifications Speake-Marin Brown Serpent Calendar MOVEMENT: Caliber Vaucher 3002, hand-assembled mechanical self-winding movement FREQUENCY: 28,800vph / 4Hz INDICATIONS: Central hour, minutes, seconds and date POWER RESERVE: 50 hours CASE: Piccadilly case, front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating DIAMETER: 42mm in titanium WATER RESISTANCE: 30 meters DIAL: Multi-layered, white-lacquered dial with a brown snailing hours circle, offset date HANDS: Hours, minutes and seconds Speake-Marin-style blued Serpent Calendar hands. Speake-Marin-style golden hand STRAP: Alligator. Pin buckle in titanium
LIMITED EDITION: 28 watches Price: $12,650
Specifications: Speake-Marin Crazy Skulls MOVEMENT: Caliber SMC01, 60 seconds tourbillon, manual winding movement, minute repeater carillon INDICATIONS: Central hours and minutes POWER RESERVE: 72 hours CASE: Piccadilly shoulders and central in titanium (Grade 5). Bezel and case back in platinum DIAMETER: 42 mm WATER RESISTANCE: 30 meters DIAL: Skeletonized with two skulls in aluminum. Roman numerals at 12. Minute repeater with animation of the dial. HANDS: Speake-Marin-style hands in heat-blued steel STRAP: Alligator. Pin buckle in 18-karat red gold
LIMITED EDITION: Two unique pieces Price: $414,000
The new TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45, the Swiss watchmaker’s second-generation smartwatch, stars a LEGO-like adaptabliity that allows the wearer to choose from 56 different case, dial, lug and strap combinations. Yes, the Google and Intel-enhanced digital features are beautfully realized with many more features than previously available, but it’s the watch’s modular design, almost endless customization options, and luxuriously finished components that place this release conceptually well ahead of other connected watches with Swiss pedigree.
Designed, developed and assembled in Switzerland by TAG Heuer, the Connected Modular 45 also connects cloud-sourced applications with Swiss mechanical know-how on several other levels.
In addition to a primary digitally connected case unit (priced at $1,650), wearers have two mechanical options available: The TAG Heuer three-hand Calibre 5 (for an additional $1,650), or a manufacture chronograph Tourbillon Heuer 02-T, with a titanium and carbon case, COSC certified ($17,000). The latter arrives in a box set including a connected watch (in grade 5 titanium, with titanium lugs and brown natural leather strap), the tourbillon chronograph module and an additional black rubber strap.
The TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 is at its most basic a Carrera watch whose lugs, strap, buckle and case are interchangeable elements. Eleven models are already available; many others can be customized. The 45mm case (1mm smaller than the first Connected) can be titanium (satin or polished), plated rose gold or black ceramic, with or without diamonds. These can be mixed or matched with a selection of lug designs like, for example, black ceramic, gold-plated or steel. Likewise, more than eighteen strap or bracelet references are available, including those made from rubber, natural leather or anthracite grey leather, titanium or ceramic.
The modularity concept extends to the watch's software with a wide range of dial customization for the primary digital unit. TAG Heuer has developed thirty watch dials, including those with well-known current and historic TAG Heuer Carrera designs. Digital dial designs include those with white, black, light grey, anthracite gr ey, chocolate brown, navy blue or gold, with sunray finish, skeleton dial, three hands, GMT, a chronograph with 1, 2, or 3 counters, plus a date and day window. All these these dials are interchangeable with a single swipe of the finger.
With assistance of Google as well a special TAG Heuer workshop within Intel’s Silicon Valley offices, the company has greatly enhanced the watch’s connectivity performance. Options include Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, GPS and NFC, which also enables users to benefit from a wide range of functions offered under the Android Wear operating system.
The TAG Heuer Connected 45 motherboard is produced in Switzerland and the final assembly step and testing are completed in TAG Heuer’s own workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The unit features 4GB of memory and a lithium battery that provides about thirty hours of power. The watch is fitted with a small water-resistant microphone enabling the wearer to communicate with it using Google Assistant, as well as a sapphire crystal touchscreen, to be used alongside the command crown at 3o'clock. A new TAG Heuer Connected app is available on Android, with iOS support coming soon.
As noted above, TAG Heuer Connected 45 prices start at $1,650. Click to see more: tagheuer.com
Just days after TAG Heuer launched its ambitious second-generation smartwatch, which we told you about here: TAG Heuer-Connects with Modular Options, Montblanc debuts its own digital wristwear: the Montblanc Summit, the brand’s first full-fledged smartwatch.
The Summit provides far more than Montblanc’s previous nod to digital wearables, the E-Strap, a Bluetooth bracelet attachment paired with Montblanc Timewalker watches offering activity tracking and notifications. The E-Strap, which debuted in early 2015, was clearly only the first step in Montblanc’s digital trek, which this week reaches new heights with Summit.
The new Montblanc Summit is a 46m smartwatch primarily housed within Montblanc’s 1858 case design around a bright screen/face inspired by the same collection. While wearers can substitute many faces, including that of the Montblanc TimeWalker Urban Speed, the watch’s case echoes the 1858 collection’s case and crown combination. And notably, the case is topped with a curved sapphire crystal, like 1858, which Montblanc says is a first among smartwatches.
Under the Montblanc dial users will find Android Wear 2.0 and Google’s latest operating system for smartwatches offering a host of novel timekeeping, fitness, notification, music and communication functions.
True to its name, The Summit specializes in providing a series of fitness metrics, including a heart-rate measurement and four daily goals (steps, calories burnt, distance, active time) with a progress bar visualized in the shape of a mountain’s summit. A particularly sophisticated worldtimer micro-app with day & night visualization shows the time in any one of the world’s 24 time zones.
In addition the touch-screen display and microphone offers access to a gyroscope and a compass, a barometer that can indicate the altitude, and an ambient light sensor. The watch is compatible with both iOS and Android smartphones.
Among the many customizable displays, one my favorites is the ability to utilize the either of the two 1858 chronograph subdials to display functions not found on the original. For instance, at the swipe of the screen the wearer can place the seconds indication in either of the two chronograph subdials.
Styles The Montblanc Summit’s 46mm case comes in a choice of four different materials and styles: black PVD-coated steel, a bi-color steel case with a black PVD-coated steel bezel, a steel case with satin finish or a satin-finished titanium case. Each timepiece is fitted with a pusher in the design of the iconic crown from the 1858 collection.
The watch faces are precise digital representations of the 1858 collection, including the Automatic model with date, the Small Second or the Chronograph. The Small Second and Chronograph can be combined with digital complications such as a world time, meeting or fitness goals.
Using the sportier TimeWalker Urban Speed face (not pictured here), wearers can substitute an Automatic Date or Chronograph. This face, unlike the more classic 1858 design, allows the wearer to choose from several color options. In all, the Montblanc Summit can be configured from among more than 300 different style and color combinations.
Montblanc notes that it plans to regularly update watch faces, which wearers can download from the Summit’s Google Play Store.
Montblanc also offers a set of eight strap options for the Summit, including an alligator strap, a rubber NATO strap (in black, blue, green or red), a black calfskin leather strap (in brown or navy blue) and a Sfumato calfskin leather strap from the Montblanc Pelletteria in Florence. Straps can be easily exchanged via the quick-release spring bars.
The watch can be charged via micro USB on a magnetic Montblanc dock. It connects via Wi-Fi and Bluetooth and features 4GB of flash storage that can be used to sync and play music without the need of a smartphone.
Starting in May the Montblanc Summit will be sold for two months via online retailer Mr. Porter. After two weeks the new smart watches will be widely available on the Montblanc website and through all Montblanc retail channels. For more information visit www.montblanc.com. Prices start at $890 and rise to about $1,100, depending on the choice of case style. A customized dial can be created with Montblanc for much more (approximately $15,000).
Oscar Waldan’s vision of watch making is unyielding. Clearly classicist when it comes to watch design, Oscar started buying high-grade mechanical movements in the 1970s just as so many brands were abandoning the type. Over the years he managed to secure a superb stockpile of El Primero, A. Schild, ETA and Valjoux movements, all of which served as the engines propelling the watches he designed for his namesake brand, which Waldan founded in 1979.
Whether in rose, yellow, white gold, or even platinum, a Waldan watch had to be timeless in design, constructed to very high standards with a superbly finished and accurate movement within. His classic preferences were also found in his watch’s primarily 36mm & 38mm case size options within certain series. This somewhat diminutive case size, once a barrier to many potential buyers, is once again in vogue with certain collectors.
Enter Andrew Representing the next generation of Waldans, Oscar’s son Andrew, has now taken over at Waldan and is adding his own vision to established Waldan traditions. The younger Waldan’s new 3986R Chronograph/Chronometer ($16,000) shows subtle changes to the original dress chronograph with re-shaped chrono pushers, a new crown, re-worked lugs and a larger 42mm gold case. What remains from its predecessor are the applied numerals on a black or white enamel dial, the Breguet-style hands and the half-moon date pointer. Inside is a high-grade and well-finished COSC-chronometer-rated ETA Valjoux 7751 movement.
Waldan’s new “S” version of the 3986 ($12,500) takes the same case shape and COSC-rated movement to create a new look for the brand. Bold in black dial and red or white accents, the watch’s 42mm titanium case is enveloped in diamond-like carbon (DLC) to create an almost scratch-proof sporty look that breaks ground for the brand without losing Waldan’s core identity. Much more daring than its more sober brethren, the “S” reflects Andrew Waldan’s own touch of modern style while keeping all the best elements of the brand.
This new generation of Waldan leadership is also subtly reflected on the dial. Looking closely you’ll see “Swiss DNA” rather than “Swiss Made.” This implies a respect for Waldan’s original ethos of Swiss quality, while allowing the New York-based brand to highlight its U.S. origins.
These new timepieces certainly would pass muster with Andrew’s toughest critic– his own father.
Daytona Beach, FLA: At 2:30 a.m. less than a handful of spectators peered through a continual drizzle as tens of millions of dollars of high-end automobiles wove in and out of the greasy, wet track during one of the most important races in the world: the Rolex 24 at Daytona.
We were guests of Porsche Design, part of a posse of journalists, retailers and well-heeled fans who had been gathered at the race for Porsche Design’s first ever sponsorship of Porsche Motorsports. Porsche Design wanted to ensure that the world knew they were intrinsically connected with the auto manufacturer in more than name only. The end game was a Mobius strip link between the new Porsche 911 RSR and the new Porsche Design Monobloc Actuator watch.
History Porsche Design as a standalone company has existed since the early 1970s. Founder Ferdinand A. (F.A.) Porsche established the product studio to extend the Bauhaus design sensibilities that he expressed so brilliantly in the original Porsche 911. During the past forty years the company has produced everything from jackets to backpacks, smartphones and kitchen cabinetry.
However, two products have emerged to define it: black watches and sunglasses.
In 1972 Porsche Design released its first product, the Chronograph 1, often considered the world’s first all-black watch. This automatic chronograph, sporting a Valjoux 7750 movement, was released during the dawn of the quartz era. F.A.’s stance on this was ephemerally Teutonic: “Wristwatches represent a set of values not equaled by quartz crystals.” Over the years, Porsche watches were built in conjunction with a number of manufacturers, specifically Orfina, IWC and then Eterna.
F.A. did not hold a patent on the evocative black watch design, and competitors soon emerged. During the same year (1972) Longines released its LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) quartz watch, featuring a similar Bauhaus stylized black dial in a sloped, rounded case, ironically reminiscent of the portly hump of the Porsche 911 predecessor, the 356. The watch won an impressive IR 100 award (Annual Industrial Research Conference Awards).
While black watches are common today, virtually every one can trace its lineage back to F.A’s original vision.
Sunglasses & more In the late 1970s Porsche Design would release a second iconic product, the P’8478 interchangeable lens sunglasses. This spawned a product line that eventually eclipsed the watches in notoriety. While F.A. was probably hoping for a Steve McQueen-type racing/celebrity to embrace his glasses, he got Yoko Ono and the Kardashians instead. As a consolation however, McQueen did drive a Porsche 908/02 in the 12 hours of Sebring race, and was a known Porsche Design aficionado.
Over the decades, the company’s success as a full on design studio extended beyond luxury goods. By 2015 it had amassed an impressive 190 awards, including a prestigious International Red Dot product design award for the Timepiece No. 1, the first watch that the company designed completely in house.
The race But Porsche Design hadn’t brought us to rainy Orlando for a history lesson. This trip was about the road that lay ahead, and the company was taking the opportunity to align its future with Porsche by introducing its sponsorship of Porsche Motorsports during the launch of Porsche’s newly developed mid-engine 911 RSR. It was a well-choreographed showcase for a new watch that reflects the company’s ability to innovate while paying homage to its original DNA.
After a generous 24 hours of eating, drinking and unparalleled backstage access to the race, Porsche Design representatives presented their guests with a discourse on the link between the new Monobloc Actuator and their cars. Honestly, every buyer should receive a copy of the PowerPoint to effectively make the connection. After listening to multiple speakers, from various divisions construct their case, the Strangelovian logic tree growing between the watch and the car became clear.
It’s likely most consumers who purchase a Porsche Design watch because they want people to think they own the car will miss the quixotic connection between the company’s products. Frankly, while both timepiece and automobile stand alone on their own well-polished bearings, understanding the relationship makes the ownership experience deeper and more intellectually rewarding.
The relationship According to Gerhard Novak, Porsche Design Head of Category Management Timepieces, the challenge with the new watch was to “integrate Swiss watchmaking with Porsche engineering. The automotive industry moves much faster than the watchmaking industry and we wanted to push the edge of innovation with this model. The challenge that we recognized in autumn of 2013 was to develop a new way to activate and steer a mechanical chronograph in line with the Porsche philosophy.” And what is that philosophy, you ask? “Question the status quo, innovate, engineer, test and perform.”
By 2014 the concept had moved from thought to design, and Porsche Design engineers began experimenting with various methods of integrating the chronometer’s pushers into a monolithic styled case with pivot-mounted actuation. To complete the connection with automotive engineering, the mechanism’s construction was designed in the same manner as the valves controlling Porsche’s racing engines.
The pushers are actuated by an integrated rocker arm mounted centrally on the right side of the case. “The rocker is moved towards the center like a cam on the cam shaft. The switching pressure is transmitted to the hardened shafts of the special pusher (like valve stems) by two carbide lozenges, (like chips). Special seals ensure that there are no leaks in the system,” according to Porsche Design.
The entire case operates as a sealed unit, so that the mechanism can be safely operated underwater. The pushers form an integral part of the case construction and seemingly disappear until a user calls for activation. The entire mechanism is derived directly from the operation of an engine, creating a holistic engineering aesthetic between man, watch and automobile, as the action of human body is itself a study in skeletonized cams, pivot points and actuators.
On the wrist The watch, rendered in titanium and available in the native grey and F.A.’s black (of which he originally commented was “a condition, not a color,”) fits well on the wrist. At 45.5 mm x 15.6 mm, you’ll know you’re wearing it, not in an obnoxious Panerai way, but in a “I’d like to peek out from under your sleeve” manner. With an anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal and tough titan-carbide coating, the watch, which was stress tested in the pits during the race itself, is designed as a tool. Like the original Chronograph 1, the new watch is powered by a Valjoux (7754) movement.
Optimistically, Porsche Design anticipates making its own movement one day. Given what they’ve done with the actuator, an entire movement would be a treat in Teutonic technology. If the spirit of F.A. still permeates the brand, that future may be just a few racing seasons away.
![Robert Priest - People Like You and Me (2024) [Hi-Res]](http://www.dibpic.com/uploads/posts/2025-07/1751805912_lhttl01vuwv8a_600.jpg)
