This American brand known for its elegance and ‘safari’ style has placed a tourbillon into one of its latest watches.
When Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry released details about its world time watch several months prior to the January SIHH, some observers were surprised at the appearance of a complicated piece from this company of primarily classically designed timepieces.
While the brand had previously offered a wide array of chronographs and power reserve models, a leap into the world of complicated, multi-functional timepieces seemed somewhat incongruous to the Safari-directed world of Ralph Lauren.
In hindsight, however, that watch, a rich blue model called the Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time watch, served as an accurate precursor of what was to follow in Geneva.
Almost immediately upon entering the Ralph Lauren press conference during the SIHH, just after a welcome by Callum Barton, Executive Chairman, Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry, the brand unveiled its show highlight, the Ralph Lauren Safari RL67 Tourbillon. Placed within the gunmetal case that characterizes the Ralph Lauren RL67 Safari timepiece collection, and set off with a rich brown alligator strap and somewhat sporty bezel-set screws, this tourbillon model defies the Swiss watch industry’s more typical classic or avant-garde tourbillon placement.
“This new expansion highlights the commitment to traditional craftsmanship and the unique lifestyle sensibility of the brand,” said Barton.
Given the immediate positive responses to last year’s initial gunmetal-cased Safari watch lineup (which International Watch documented in an October 2012 cover story of the brand), Ralph Lauren seems to have wisely placed the tourbillon within Safari. Note that even the prominent dial-side tourbillon bridge has been finished with the characteristic gunmetal effect.
To create this effect, the steel in the case undergoes a chemical and thermal treatment that both increases its durability and transforms the steel’s natural silver finish into the more rugged, dark finish on the final product. This technique requires a high degree of accuracy and attention to detail, as each case component is finished by hand. In fact, each case, bezel, crown, buckle, button and screw in the collection is sandblasted, brushed, polished and chamfered.
Via the tourbillon model’s sapphire caseback one sees the gold micro-rotor that drives the customized movement up to its 38-hour power reserve. More Ralph Lauren casebacks now feature such clear sapphire, a much-appreciated trend given that most of the movements housed within the collection are customized by Richemont Group brands for Ralph Lauren. The alligator leather strap is crafted in Italy.
Where the world timer and the tourbillon added wholly new features to the Ralph Lauren timepiece collection, the brand hasn’t neglected its ongoing collections.
The Chronometer
With its large cream-colored Arabic ‘12’ and ‘6’ and orange seconds hand, the new RL67 Chronometer garnered nearly as many second glances as the tourbillon when it debuted alongside that complicated model in January. An olive drab canvas strap and the aged 45 mm steel case perfectly convey the Ralph Lauren Safari aesthetic. The watch is the first COSC-certified model in the Ralph Lauren collection—a fact proudly noted with the word ‘chronometer’ tastefully printed under the brand name on the dial.
To many however, the dial and canvas strap represent only one aspect of the new Chronometer’s appeal. The watch’s list price, $3,250, places it as one of the brand’s most affordable automatic models.
“The introduction of the RL67 Chronometer with a very approachable price point opens up our range of products to a wider audience,” explains Barton. And that audience will soon find Ralph Lauren watches in more retail locations. The five-year-old brand says it plans to place its watches into about six or seven new retail locations (including jewelry stores and Ralph Lauren boutiques) each year, with a major launch expected in China.
Stirrup and Diamonds
Many Ralph Lauren fans consider the Stirrup Collection the brand’s iconic design, especially considering the history of the company.
“When I named my company Polo in 1967, I wanted to celebrate the grace and beauty of horse riding, an elegant equestrian heritage,” Lauren explains in his company’s literature. “But at the same time create something new, something that would be iconic and timeless.”
The Ralph Lauren Stirrup watches in 2013 now include two new pieces. The Stirrup Steel Link timepiece has a small stirrup-style case balanced by a new polished chain link steel bracelet. Like the Chronometer, the new Stirrup Steel Link model will be available for $2,500, a price meant to attract possibly new consumers to the brand and one that 
represents the entry point for those who seek the world of Ralph Lauren on their wrist.
For women who prefer even more sparkle, a new Stirrup Diamond Link features a pavé diamond chain link bracelet with more than 1,900 diamonds.
Finally, this year the brand added a gem-set version of its 867 dress model, named for the firm’s flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue in New York. Called the Ralph Lauren 867 Diamond Watch, the high jewelry piece pays tribute to the Art Deco era, one of Ralph Lauren’s favorite design inspirations (see the iW cover story of December 2011 for more about Ralph Lauren’s love of Art Deco design) with a black suede strap adorned with ornate diamond pavé arabesque motifs.
*Stay tuned for an interview with Executive Chairman of Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewelry Callum Barton later this week.