With barely enough time to clear my head of all the grand steel chronographs on the block at the Phillips Start, Stop, Reset auction this weekend, I soldiered on to yet another important auction preview with the folks from Christie’s. This time around, my inner collector geek faced an even greater challenge. This is not a theme-driven auction, nor does it revolve around any particular brand, era, or genre of any sort. Instead I came face to face and caseback to wrist with some seriously rare pieces of hardware to be left with the same mighty question of what got my heart beating and palms sweating. This time around, there are a couple extra notable pieces that require a mention before we move on to my personal hit list.

For starters, any big-gun collectors with a soft spot for perpetual calendars must be losing their minds over the Christie’s lineup. The auction docket contains no less than forty-eight Patek Philippes, including the fine trio of perpetual calendar moonphase models that show an interesting evolution of the model through the years. From right to left, these models date from 1951, 1953, and 1973 respectively. While the bones of the models, particularly the font choices and subdial positioning, remain intact, their cases changed a significant deal within a relatively short period of time. It’s also interesting to see the transition from small seconds, to central seconds, to no seconds indication whatsoever.

1- Omega Waterproof Chronograph, Circa 1942

These early Omega chronographs are very rapidly gaining traction in the collector’s scene and it’s clear that both Christie’s and Phillips are paying attention. Of the two auction houses I’d argue that this is the best-looking variant headed for the auction block over the next couple of weeks (not to mention the one with the lowest auction estimate). Its dial and hands have some serious patina, and its red pulsometer scale stands out nicely against its aged cream and black dial. Estimated Sale Price: CHF 12,000-22,000

2- Rolex 6543 Oyster Perpetual Milgauss, Circa 1955

Again, I’m not a big Rolex guy, but if I had to chase an uber-rare grail Rolex, this just might be it. This is the first ever Milgauss anti-magnetic Rolex ever made, and its submariner-style case has the same red triangle-marker bezel and guard-free crown of the hugely popular big-crown sub. Add to that its untouched textured dial and the fact that it stayed with its original owner until 2012, making it a two-owner-since-new timepiece, and you’re left with another Rollie that’s no doubt going to generate a ton of interest when it comes up on the stage. Estimated Sale Price: CHF 80,000-140,000

3- All-Gold Omega Flightmaster, Circa 1971

The Omega Flightmaster is an acquired taste to say the least, but for those (like me) who are fans, this solid gold variant is the holy grail. Yes, it’s brutally heavy on the wrist, but having a GMT chronograph with an additional 60-minute inner timing bezel housed in a case that will beg both the geeky and non geeky to ask “what the hell is that?” is appealing on so many levels. If the gold variant is a bit too much for you, Christie’s also has a couple stainless steel variants on the docket estimated at roughly $2,000. Estimated Sale Price: CHF 20,000-30,000

4- Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Chrono, Circa 1941

As previously mentioned, Christie’s has all the Patek perpetuals you could ever ask for, however this uber-rare Audemars Piguet is in a number of ways the real king of the castle when it comes to a perpetual calendar chronograph. Granted at least two of the Pateks are destined to rake in more dough than this lovely AP, but there are a few key details that earn this lovely classic a few more points. This Audemars Piguet pre-dates any of the Patek Philippe perpetuals by roughly a decade, only ten of them were ever produced, and finally its moonphase subdial disk is just impeccable. If you look closely you’ll notice an incredible reflective golden sheen on its moon and stars. Estimated Sale Price: CHF 150,000-250,000

5-A. Lange & Söhne, Platinum and Steel (from Upcoming NYC Auction)

After working our way through the highlights of Geneva, Christie’s watch specialist Eric Wind dug out a few extra gems for me to drool over. Once the Geneva auction is done New York will be getting its very own Important Watches auction on June 7, and it’s destined to be a good one. Two different offerings from A. Lange & Söhne drew my attention. Both pieces are equally rare, but for vastly different reasons. The first, a Lange 1 Tourbillon, is nothing shy of ridiculous. It’s hard not to love everything from the German powerhouse, but what pushes this particular Lange way over the edge is the inclusion of an original all-platinum bracelet — a $60,000 option at time of purchase. Just when I thought the aforementioned gold Omega Flightmaster was a hefty piece, throwing on this Lange made the Flightmaster feel like it was a plastic-cased G-Shock.

The other A. Lange & Söhne watch expected to drive collectors mental at the NYC auction is a tough pill to swallow in a way. The black-dialed steel-cased Lange 1 seen here is one of only three known in existence, and in a case where rarity trumps materials this steel model is expected to fetch as much as $400,000 when it crosses the auction block on June 7th. Now when you get into that stratosphere I start playing the skeptic card, and would likely be heading for precious metals, but I’m sure there’s no shortage of collectors out there for whom rarity makes all the difference.

The first thing that captured my attention upon arrival at the Zenith Manufacture in April was the inimitable presence that it enjoys in Le Locle. The multi-building site, established in 1865, with its familiar and recently refurbished monogram of founder Georges Favre-Jacot, is something to behold, figuratively rising Oz-like from the bucolic countryside surrounding the city. The brand’s 150th anniversary banner was still flying outside, adding to the festive atmosphere, as were several national flags in honor of the countries represented by visitors at the manufacture that day.

Le Locle is the third smallest city in Switzerland at just over 10,000 people, but it is a place that has been critical to watchmaking since the seventeenth century. The vestiges of this cottage industry are still evident in the patchwork of residences and workshops in the region, which also housed an aptitude for lacemaking in addition to horology. Interestingly, it was Georges Favre-Jacot who invited the various local artisans to work under one roof, thereby—and perhaps initially unwittingly—creating a true watch manufacture.

Influenced by the budding U.S. auto industry, Favrot-Jacot employed the then-radical system of vertical manufacturing whereby a foundry, rolling mills, stamping presses, case and dial production and more were all achieved within the manufacture for reasons of both efficiency and independence. In addition, the company’s thoughtful proximity to the Le Locle train station—a literal stone’s throw from the Zenith property—opened a commercial door to the world.

Favrot-Jacot also had the ingenious idea of varying the artisans’ tasks to avoid monotony by moving them from one workstation to another throughout the workday. So thanks to seating fixed on rails—somewhat like today’s rolling office chairs—workers could change location without getting up and also maintain their relative position to the workbench in the process.

As another example of Favrot-Jacot’s prescience, the buildings that made up the manufactory in its early years were the first in the town to be equipped with electricity, and they were connected by passages so workers could move about without being exposed to the harsh Swiss winters. The spacious workshops were designed to capture natural light—a true benefit when working with small timepiece parts. Incidentally, the passageways are still evident, giving the visitor a sense of a marvelous history that is still being written.

The manufactory recently underwent a renovation, completed last year in honor of the 150th anniversary, and while there’s a distinct freshness evident throughout the space, much of the original personality of the structures (now 19 buildings strong) has been preserved. Incidentally, the aforementioned monogrammed exterior bricks, now painted in red and white, were produced at a nearby company residing next to a quarry owned by the entrepreneurial Favrot-Jacot. As part of its UNESCO stature, Le Locle is charged with preserving this historic and remarkable façade.

Inside

Zenith is today the antithesis of the Le Locle cottage industry that once was, with its state-of-the-art machinery and 250 employees. But the hands-on spirit of those early roots remains despite the technology that has interceded.

Eighty different production specialties take place here, from the artistic to the technical: research and development, tool-making, prototype-making, movement ébauches, stamping, decoration, assembling and casing, polishing and much more. Not surprisingly, such things as springs, hands and dials, among a few other components, are outsourced. To put it in perspective, producing a single watch in the El Primero collection entails an average of nine months during which over 2,500 operations are performed by 300 pairs of highly trained hands.

And in case you’re wondering about the famed attic, where loyal Zenith employee Charles Vermot purportedly “saved the company” by hiding the original tooling, parts and notes for the El Primero during the quartz revolution, I didn’t visit it this time but have fond memories from a past experience. As the story goes, Vermot moved equipment and documents to the small space, against specific company directives, to preserve the history and culture of the firm he so loved. In the 1980s, when mechanical movement manufacturing resumed, the documentation and equipment were unearthed and Vermot received the acclaim he earned. The attic has been preserved as a reminder of the company’s storied past.

Our visit concluded with a display of watches in Zenith’s current production—an extremely impressive sight en masse. And since my visit was concurrent with the Paris to Cannes Tour Auto Optic 2000 race, this year’s Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto edition was on full and beautiful display.

Nancy Olson

This year’s TimeCrafters, the fourth edition, is proving to be an exciting one, and while I look forward to visiting the nearly twenty brands that will be on display, of particular note are the following. I will explain.

TAG Heuer

A favorite stop on my annual Baselworld sojourn, the TAG Heuer exhibit is always a finely tuned blend of high energy, high sophistication and high design. I expect nothing less at the TimeCrafters event. And this year, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the iconic Indy 500 race, TAG Heuer is launching a Special Edition of its revisited Carrera chronograph, the Heuer 01. A limited edition of 100 pieces will showcase the “Indy 500 logo” on the dial as well as on the caseback and bezel. This timepiece will be unveiled at the Time Crafters exhibition in New York, which is taking place shortly before the race in Indianapolis.

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co. was born in New York, and for this reason alone, I’m excited to see their display. There’s something magical about experiencing a brand on its own turf, as I’m so often reminded when I visit various watch manufacturers throughout the world. In 1853, Charles Lewis Tiffany installed a clock outside of Tiffany & Co. in New York City, long before public clocks were commonplace. And thus began Tiffany’s watchmaking legacy. Among other timepieces, Tiffany is showcasing at the show its CT60 Chronograph men’s watch in 18-karat rose gold.

Richard Mille

Richard Mille’s timepieces seem to embody qualities of New York—forward thought, great architecture and a modern sophistication, making TimeCrafters a perfect fit for the brand. Produced by a team of talented engineers in an ultra-modern and ecologically advanced production workshop in Switzerland, Richard Mille watches are very 21st century, while embracing classical watchmaking principles. The RM 63-02 Automatic World Timer with the new in-house designed CRMA4 automatic caliber will be on display.

Mike Thompson

Collectors in New York are today thinking about the big Timecrafters public watch show that starts Friday at the stately Park Avenue Armory. More than a few enthusiasts will also be there for a special opening event Thursday evening. When the doors open, you’ll see me heading for several stands first to eye, and possibly wear, a few special pieces that I’ve not previously been able to see wrapped around my wrist.

One will be the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, which I saw only too briefly in Geneva earlier this year. I have a weakness for skeletonized watches of all sorts, and this one is particularly spectacular in many respects. Not only does it feature an unusual technical method to reach greater precision, an age-old concern, but also it addresses this goal openly with a beautifully decorated Caliber 3132. Audemars Piguet has equipped the movement with two balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, mounted on one common staff. The two balance springs work in opposition to improve precision and stability. All this is visible within a classic Royal Oak 41mm gold or steel case, one of which will, if I can help it, find its way to my wrist later this week at Timecrafters.

I’ve also always enjoyed the sight of white porcelain dials, which to my eyes offer a just slightly creamier hue when compared to enamel dials. There aren’t many made, in part due to their fragility. As a result very few watchmakers use them, which makes them doubly interesting in the rare pieces that feature this storied artisanal method. So when Frederique Constant recently debuted a limited edition series with just such a dial, I took notice. The Geneva brand’s Classics Art of Porcelain watch is a limited edition of 188 with a dial made by skilled craftsmen from the Zsolnay Porcelain Manufacture, a Hungarian firm that known for fixing its porcelain color to last many decades. The Zsolnay factory was established to produce ceramics in 1853 in Pécs, Hungary.

The nicely priced ($2,195) 40mm polished steel watch will, I presume, be a treat to see on my wrist, perhaps as early as Thursday evening.

Another timepiece that will attract enthusiasts of all stripes at Timecrafters is currently one of Vacheron Constantin’s most prized possessions. Having only once seen the Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260, considered the most complicated pocket watch ever made, I look forward to again eyeing it later this week, possibly for the last time. Reference 57260 is a wholly original creation with a total of fifty-seven complications, some of which are unique, including multiple calendars, three column wheels, eight chiming options and a double retrograde split-seconds chronograph.

The pocket watch was made on request, and Vacheron Constantin is only displaying it on very limited occasions until its owner gains custody, so to speak. Three primary watchmakers at the manufacture spent eight years designing and assembling the large timepiece, which measures 96mm (nearly four inches) in diameter and approximately 50mm in width and houses more than 2,600 components. On its exterior one can see another 200 parts comprising the hands, dials and the 960-gram (just over two pounds) 18-karat white gold case.

Tim Mosso

TimeCrafters 2016 will mark the fourth and largest edition of the North American luxury watch market’s premier timepiece exhibition. 2016 will see over 30 top watch brands open themselves and their catalogs to the public at New York City’s Park Avenue Armory from May 13 to May 15. The highlights of 2016 showcase the unique appeal of TimeCrafters; access to brand personnel, access to watches, and a unique fusion of Baselworld and SIHH novelties in a single exhibition.

The annual Baselworld and SIHH trade shows are vast, impersonal, and generally the domain of dealers and media. In contrast, TimeCrafters is planned and presented for the enjoyment of the collector. While ownership of a luxury watch is not required, passion for the hobby is mandatory. Visitors gain immediate access to brand watchmakers, artisans, senior sales advisors and product specialists.

Those who enjoy watching the process of movement service, hand-engraving, and miniature painting are treated to a uniquely intimate introduction via the craftspeople themselves. Brands with strong artisanal traditions use TimeCrafters as a platform to bring these often esoteric arts to the fore in the name of collector access. For other enthusiasts, the accessibility of senior luxury brand representatives facilitates unrivaled insights into the brands themselves, the collector scene, and the luxury watch landscape in general. Naturally, the show floor is awash in other enthusiasts with whom to make acquaintances.

People are essential to any social occasion, but the products – the watches – define the TimeCrafters experience. With few exceptions, the trade shows in Basel and Geneva are look-but-don’t-touch affairs geared towards press attention and dealer orders. Despite its smaller scope, TimeCrafters offers visitors an order of magnitude more face time – and wrist time – with the latest releases and perennial classics alike.

Do you want to know if a 2016 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph sits securely on your wrist? TimeCrafters has the watch and the solution. The chance to try a coveted model, a hyper-exotic concept watch, or simply to see a watch-of-interest without an internet filter cuts to the the heart of the TimeCrafters exhibitors’ mission and the visitor’s experience.

Baselworld and SIHH are mutually exclusive experiences. The exhibitors of the first rarely have any presence at the former. But the luxury watch enthusiast can enjoy the best of both at TimeCrafters. From SIHH stalwarts like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet to the Basel superpowers Omega and TAG Heuer, the TimeCrafters brand portfolio channels the best of Switzerland’s biggest watch events into a one-stop amusement park for the North American luxury watch devotee.

Naturally, iW Magazine and its editorial staff of luxury watch authorities will be on hand for TimeCrafters 2016. I will be giving tours as Editorial Director and sharing public outreach duties with my colleague Editor-In-Chief Mike Thompson. The free iWMagazine collector tours of TimeCrafters 2016 will be a daily feature of the event from its opening on Friday, May 13 to the final exhibition day of Sunday, May 15. Inquire at the iW Magazine exhibition area at the show for tour topics and times.

At this year’s Timecrafters, which begins tomorrow at the New York Armory on Park Avenue TAG Heuer will have their Connected Watches on hand. The newest addition to the timepieces is the specialized Indy 500 dials.

TAG Heuer brand ambassador Patrick Dempsey, actor and professional racecar driver, will inaugurate the booth on opening night. His presence at the event marks a special occasion, as one year ago he waved the green flag inviting 2015 Indy Car drivers to start their engines for the 99th race.

The 46-millimeter case features a scratch-resistant screen with an LCD display. The watch features 1 GB main memory and 4 GB of storage memory.

About TAG Heuer
For more than 150 years, TAG Heuer has faced down every challenge, and then pushed past it. By defying the time-honored conventions of Swiss watchmaking, it has led it to ever higher levels of precision and performance. 
It makes its own rules, chooses its own path, never quits moving forward, never compromises, never cracks under pressure.

As team iW arrived at 66th and Lexington this morning, we were greeted with the sound of hardware tools and looking at finishing touches at TimeCrafters 2016. All of our team was excited by the improved scope of the luxury watch show and excited to see all of the programming offered.

Walking around the booths, watches featured and discussed all year on our site and in our magazine are on display at the Park Avenue Armory from May 13-15. (Particularly excited about the Vacheron Constantin Reference 57260 and Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon). The 18 brands will show their best at TimeCrafters, and unless you travelled to Baselworld in March or were lucky enough to attend the trade-only SIHH in January, chances are you haven’t yet seen any of the debut 2016 timepieces that are shown.

Naturally, iW Magazine and its editorial staff of luxury watch authorities will be on hand for TimeCrafters 2016. Our Editor-in-Chief, Mike Thompson will be giving tours as Editorial Director and sharing public outreach duties with Editorial Director, Tim Mosso. The free collector tours of TimeCrafters 2016 will be a daily feature of the event from its opening on Friday, May 13 to the final exhibition day of Sunday, May 15. Inquire at our exhibition area at the show for tour topics and times.

Two years ago, we were also involved with the watch show. The size and scope was a bit smaller, but this year’s Timecrafters is here to compete with Baselworld and SIHH.

Exhibiting brands include:

A. Lange & Söhne
Alpina
Audemars Piguet
Baume & Mercier
Chopard
DeMonaco
Frédérique Constant
Hublot
HYT
Jaeger-LeCoultre
MCT
Richard Mille
Roger Dubuis
TAG Heuer
Tiffany & Co.
Urwerk
Vacheron Constantin
Zenith

For more information, visit TimeCrafters website.

Vacheron Constantin this week adds a fresh-faced World Time watch to the much-lauded SIHH 2016 re-launch of its Overseas collection. As the sixth new model in this revamped Overseas collection, the Overseas World Time arrives with a dial somewhat familiar to those who know the firm’s Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time from 2011, though this new Overseas edition is made strictly with a steel case and features three color options and specially made map with an unusual “Lambert” world projection in its center.

As with the previous world timers, this new edition displays thirty-seven time zones, including those that are offset by a half-hour or quarter-hour in relation to UTC time. In addition to the central projection map (with continents enhanced by a sunburst satin-brushed finish and the oceans in a velvet finish) there’s a translucent lacquered city disc and a third sapphire disc placed over the map to provide day/night indications with graded smoky tints, which synchronized with the 24-hour disc. A translucent lacquered velvet-finished outer ring serves to indicate the hours and minutes. Dials are available in blue, silver-toned or brown. Vacheron Constantin assures that watch earns Hallmark of Geneva certification.

Inside, the 43.5mm watch features Caliber 2460 WT, which also powers the firm’s earlier world timers. Its 22-karat gold rotor features the Overseas wind rose as a symbolic ode to travellers, and all the new watch’s indications are adjusted via the crown. Like the other 2016 Overseas debuts, this world timer offers the interchangeable bracelet and strap options that did much to amplify the positive critical response the Overseas received in January. The included leather strap, rubber strap and steel bracelet can be switched and secured without any tools.

Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Overseas World Time

•References 7700V/110A-B129 – silver-toned dial,7700V/110A-B172 – blue dial,7700V/110A-B176 – brown dial

•Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces

•Caliber Automatic 2460 WT with 22-karat gold rotor,approximately 40 hours of power reserve,4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

•Indications Hours and minutes, central seconds, world time indication (37 cities) day-night indication

Case

•43.5mm steel, 12.6mm thick,

•Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection,Screwed-down crown,

•Transparent sapphire crystal caseback, 150 meters water-resistance

Dial Three superimposed:

•Map of the northern hemisphere with sunburst satin-finished continents & velvet-finished seas. Translucent silver- toned/blue/brown lacquered disc with transferred city names

•Sapphire disc with transferred day/night and 24-hour indications (period between 6.30pm and 6.30am highlighted with a black background)

•Translucent silver-toned/blue/brown lacquered ring, opaline- finished, transferred minute-track

•18-karat gold hours and minutes hands highlighted with whiteluminescent material

Bracelet/Straps Stainless steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links,

•Delivered with a second black/blue/brown alligator leather strap featuring a black nubuck lining with a micro- perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales,

•Delivered with a third strap in black/blue/brown rubber

Price: $37,000; Available: August/September 2016

The UEFA Euro 2016 championship begins on June 10. Many Americans aren’t football (soccer) fans, but the tournament is a major event for European countries and the few fans in the US. This year maybe the shake-up of football will continue during the matches, considering a major underdog Leicester City won the Premier League in England.

To celebrate the competition, Hublot debuts the Big Bang Unico Chronograph Retrograde UEFA EURO 2016™. Taking place in France, the watch takes inspiration from the French flag colors, red, white and blue.

Powering the watch is the self-winding bi-retrograde movement with a central chronograph and column wheel. The watch is placed on a black rubber and dark blue alligator straps with white and red stitching.

About Hublot
The fruit of several years of research in collaboration with EPFL’s metallurgy department, Hublot has created a veritable “fusion” between pure gold and boron carbide (a ceramic): the brand has obtained an alloy of 18 carat gold surpassing traditional gold alloys in hardness and scratch resistance, while conserving the best properties of the ceramic and the gold. During the polishing, the raw alloy changes from a nearly black color to a unique gold tint, earning it the name “Magic Gold”.

In 2016, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver came on the scene in saturated shades of blue, green, yellow and orange, fitting the bill for those of us seeking a little late-winter uplift from a glimpse at the wrist. The watches shown here are driven by the self-winding AP 3124/3841 movement, crafted and decorated by hand and visible through the caseback.

Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and rotating inner bezel with dive-time indication. The orange version, pictured has a coordinating Méga Tapisserie dial, black inner bezel with color-coordinated markers and diving scale, a black subdial and white indexes with luminescent coating, and each comes on a color-matched rubber strap. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and is available exclusively at Audemars Piguet boutiques.

About Audemars Piguet
A watchmaking empire was born in 1875 when Jules Louis Audemars joined forces with Edward Auguste Piguet. Founded on precision, artistry and enterprise, Audemars Piguet remains oldest fine watch-making manufacturer operated by the same family. Perhaps one of its most recognized accomplishments is actualized in the Royal Oak case. Designed by watchmaking legend Charles Gérald Genta, the Royal Oak was the world’s first luxury sport watch. Today, Audemars Piguet remains one of the most recognized Ateliers in the world.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire White Gold continues the watchmaker’s dedication to traditional watchmaking. Refined but also unique, the timepiece reveals part of the watch’s movement to stand out in the haute horology world.

The Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 381, a hand-winding mechanical movement contains 374 parts and two independent barrels each equipped with a 50-hour power reserve. The movement powers the 40.5-millimeter white gold case. Functions include date, hour, minute, moon phases, power reserve, seconds and jumping seconds.

The watch is priced at $43,000.

About Jaeger-LeCoultre
It was an invention that led to the first Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop. Since 1833, the Manufacture has not only fostered this heritage of invention, creativity and technical skill together under one roof but also constantly set out in search of innovation. The first representative of the LeCoultre family in Switzerland, Pierre LeCoultre (ca. 1530 – ca. 1600) fled his village of Lisy-sur-Ourcq near Paris to escape the religious persecutions in France. In the Joux Valley, he put the virgin lands to good use, exploited woodland resources and devoted the later years of his life to the teaching of religion and general culture. In 1612 his son was one of the founders of the village of Le Sentier, where Jaeger-LeCoultre has thrived since 1833.

Blancpain’s three-hand version of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe appears for the first time in a plasma gray ceramic case. Outfitting the model with a deep blue dial invokes an image of the sea. The plasma gray ceramic bezel is equipped with a blue ceramic insert featuring Liquidmetal® hour markers, preventing distortions. The material was first used in the Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback Ocean Commitment in 2014.

As a diving watch, the large seconds hand serves as an indicator that the watch is running. The watch is powered by the 1315 caliber. With its sturdiness and precision, the caliber represents the watchmaker’s dedication to accuracy. The caliber was conceived for sports watches and is fitted with a robust glucydur balance wheel, with square-head gold screws guaranteeing precision and efficient adjustment.

The watch is offered with a three-ring NATO strap or a sail canvas strap.

About Blancpain
Since founded by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain in 1735, the brand has been committed to the advancement of mechanical watchmaking and maintaining the classic values of its founder. In the 1930s, Blancpain was recognized for the launch of the world's first ladies' automatic timepiece. Through modernizing production methods and focusing on top quality products, Blancpain has become one of the most innovative brands in the watchmaking industry.

To ramp up the excitement at this year’s TimeCrafters, held in New York City May 13 through May 15, Richard Mille introduced two new limited edition collections produced in collaboration with PGA golfer and Masters champion Bubba Watson. The current Richard Mille Bubba Watson collection includes the RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, the RM 38-01 Tourbillon G-Sensor and the RM 055 Bubba Watson. The two new watches are named RM 055 Bubba Watson “White Legend” and “Dark Legend.”

The tonneau-shaped tripartite cases of these new watches feature NTPT Carbon top and bottom bezels, and blasted titanium case bands; the cases measure in at 49.90mm by 42.70mm. The White Legend is distinguished by its white inner bezel, hands and crown protector, while the Dark Legend is inky black with a red crown protector and detailing. Inside each beats the caliber RMUL2, a manual-winding skeletonized movement that is capable of withstanding accelerations of over 5000 Gs, allowing great performance on the wrist—particularly among those with a powerful golf swing.

The double-barrel movement, with 55 hours of power reserve, features a free sprung balance with variable inertia. The baseplate and bridges are in grade 5 titanium, coated in PVD, and the spline screws for the bridges are also grade 5 titanium. Frequency is 28,8000 vph.

Just ninety examples of each watch will be produced, and they are available at Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour, Aspen and Las Vegas, as well as authorized Richard Mille retailers in the Americas.

The Torpedo Pirata GMT takes inspiration from Cuervo y Sobrinos’ history with the Caribbean islands such as Cuba, Tortuga and Santo Domingo. The case is in the shape of a cannon mouth while the lugs represent the bow of a ship on the Caribbean Sea. The crown’s subtle design is in the shape of the globe, and the buckle captures the design of the lugs.

The watch comes in two versions, one is white and the other comes in black. The watch is powered by the CYS 5123, an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, seconds, second timezone and a date display at 6 o’clock.

The sapphire crystal case-back on each model reveals the details of the mechanism. Engraved on the caseback is a unique logo for this mode, 2 swords surround the classic CyS logo.

The watch is priced at $6,500.

About Cuervo y Sobrinos
Cuervo y Sobrinos holds a unique position, a tradition and identity which differentiates the brand created in Havana from any other luxury watchmaking company. Cuervo y Sobrinos is the only traditional Swiss fine watchmaking enterprise which can boast a real and proven Latin heritage.

Manhattan nightclub Up&Down was the site of the fourth anniversary celebration of Analog/Shift, a leading buyer and seller of rare vintage timepieces from the 1930s through the 1980s. But the May 11 festivities didn’t end there. The evening also included the announcement of Geoffrey Hess as Analog/Shift’s new Chief Executive Officer.

“Geoff brings with him not only an incredible CV, but a true passion for vintage timepieces,” said Analog/Shift founder (and iW contributor) James Lamdin. “This combination made him the only choice for the leader of our executive team, and I’m thrilled to have him on board.”

Hess, formerly President and CEO of Ivanka Trump Fine Jewelry and a lifelong watch collector, said, “Analog/Shift is a rare example of a platform with unlimited potential, built in a market that is experiencing significant levels of growth. I’m proud to be spearheading its evolution and am wholeheartedly confident in its future success.”

An additional highlight of the festivities was an appearance by former Mayor Rudy Giuliani who launched the online auction of an historical vintage Wittnauer, a watch originally presented by the New York Yankees to shortstop Dick Bartell at the 1962 Old-Timers’ Game at Yankee Stadium. The auction, which will end this Friday, May 20, is being hosted on analogshift.com. All proceeds will go to the support of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), a nonprofit organization dedicated to advancing the art and science of horology.

Lamdin and Analog/Shift Chief Operations Officer Jacob Sotak also announced that is has launched a new Analog/Shift subsidiary called Contrapante, dedicated to sourcing and online sales of rare and pre-owned timepieces created by independent ateliers. Noted collector and HSNY board member Kiran Shekar will direct the new venture.

The new premiere from Richard Mille, the RM-055 Bubba Watson “White Legend” premiered in the Americas at this past weekend’s TimeCrafters event in NYC.

The White Legend is distinguished by its white inner bezel, hands and crown protector. The watch is powered by the caliber RMUL2. The double-barrel movement, with 55 hours of power reserve, features a free sprung balance with variable inertia. The baseplate and bridges are in grade 5 titanium, coated in PVD, and the spline screws for the bridges are also grade 5 titanium. Frequency is 28,8000 vph.

Richard Mille will produce 90 examples of the RM-055 Bubba Watson White Legend, and 90 examples of the RM-055 Bubba Watson Dark Legend that has red accents. The limited editions are available at Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour, Aspen and Las Vegas, as well as authorized Richard Mille retailers in the Americas. Both new timepieces premiered at the TimeCrafters 2016 watch show in New York City.

About Richard Mille
Since its establishment in 2001, the Richard Mille brand has been responsible for a number of world premier innovations in the application, use and design of new technological materials that have extended the field of horological knowledge and invention. Utilizing materials more commonly found in the world of high-tech aeronautics and racing car industries such as carbon nanofiber ALUSIC and Aluminum-Lithium, Richard Mille watches are known for achieving advanced chronometric results and furthering horology in the 21st century.

As what may be the most memorable watch auction long weekend in years drew to a close late Monday, new records were set with Rolex and Patek Philippe timepieces, while many other familiar names, including TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Universal Genève, Zenith, and Urban Jurgensen, reached new levels of auction desirability.

At Sotheby’s on May 14, rare Vacheron Constantin and TAG Heuer watches joined Patek Philippe at the top of the high bid list.

An extremely rare pocket watch by Patek Philippe (Lot 227) led the sale, easily surpassing its estimate to reach $475,488. Thought to be one of only two models of reference 844 in white gold, this minute repeating perpetual calendar watch with moon-phases from 1973 bears a full digital display of day, month and date held within a single aperture.

Another Patek Philippe also brought in the high bidders at Sotheby’s. A rare stainless steel Patek Philippe wristwatch (lot 212) with black dial and Breguet numerals, reference 1504, soared to more than ten times its pre-sale estimate, reaching $330,424. This is the only known example of this reference, which combines a stainless steel case, black dial and pink gold Breguet numerals.

A world auction record for a Heuer watch was set when Formula One driver Ronnie Peterson’s Heuer Carrera watch sold for $226,663, more than twenty times the pre-sale estimate. Jack W. Heuer presented this reference 1158 to Ronnie Peterson in 1972 on the occasion of the signing of a sponsorship deal.

A desk timepiece made by Vacheron Constantin (Lot 170) in collaboration with Verger Frères sold for $433,178 after eight avid collectors battled for it.

These highlights, along with a selection of vintage and modern wristwatches, drove the total of the sale to just about $4 million. The full list of results can be found here.

Phillips

With six watches selling for more than $1 million, including a record-topping $2.45 million Rolex sale, Phillips had the watch collector world enthralled with two auctions this past weekend. At its much-touted all-chronograph Star-Stop-Reset auction, all eighty-eight timepiece were sold, including that record-setting steel split-seconds 1942 Rolex Ref. 4113 (lot 56), which more than tripled its lower estimate at the final hammer. In the same auction a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Paul Newman” with a Valjoux 727 movement (lot 31) fetched $2 million, a record for any Rolex Dayton at auction. The auction included several top lots from Omega, TAG Heuer, Universal Genève and Zenith, among others.

At the second Phillips auction of the weekend, Three, which offered 137 wristwatches and pocket watches, a yellow gold 1956 Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 fetched a record high (for Ref. 2499 in gold) $1.7 million, while a steel Patek Philippe Ref. 530 made in 1941 reached 1.47 million after a protracted battle between bidders in the room. That Ref. 530 also set a record as the highest sale price at auction for a steel watch without complications.

All told Philipps finished the weekend with an astounding $33 million in sales for both auctions combined. Check here for more results from Phillips.

Christie’s

On May 16, a rare Breguet repeater and calendar made in 1800 topped the Christie’s Rare Watches auction in Geneva, hammering at $3.3 million, almost three times its high estimate. Among this auction’s 237 lots, this Breguet No. 217, in addition to being self-winding (a rarity) has the extra complications of day and month calendar, power reserve and, most unusually, an equation of time indication. It was once owned by one of Napoleon’s generals and Charles-Louis Havas, the founder of Agence France-Presse (AFP), the world’s first news agency.

Also topping the bids at Christie’s was a 1938 Patek Philippe steel chronograph (lot 171), Ref. 530, with a sector dial retailed by Astrua Torino, considered among the most impressive oversized chronographs ever made by Patek Philippe. The 36.5 mm case is only found on the three known steel reference 530 watches with sector dials. The final price of this was $1.2 million.

To see more about the Christie’s Rare Watches sale, see here.

Antiquorum

The May 16 Geneva auction by Antiquorum saw a somewhat surprising high bid for an Urban Jurgensen rose gold pocket watch called the Krusenstern Chronometer (lot 84). The very rare rose gold pocket chronometer with Arnold spring detent chronometer escapement drew bids worldwide, eventually selling for about $766,000, more than twelve times its high estimate. A second Urban Jurgensen model, Lot 214, a perpetual calendar chronograph, also inspired bidders, selling for about $89,000.

A Patek Philippe Ref. 3651 (lot 476) gold chronograph, only the fourth example ever to appear at auction, also inspired fervent bidding, finally selling for CHF 207,750, or about $213,000. Audemars Piguet’s interesting ‘Napoleon Reviewing the Troops’ minute repeating enamel pocket watch, in yellow gold (lot 243), which features a double enamel scene, also attracted scores of bidders, finally selling for CHF183,750, about $188,000, more than four times its high estimate. A Vacheron Constantin One Minute Tourbillon, lot 164, also incited competitive bidding, also sold for $188,000, more than twice its high estimate.

Read more about Antiquorum’s May 16 auction in Geneva here.

Ralph Lauren this past week expanded its timepiece offerings for women with RL888, its first round model made for ladies, while also adding a new bracelet version of an existing model, the Art Deco-inspired RL867 collection.

At the same time, many men will welcome a smaller-cased edition of one of Ralph Lauren’s hottest models, its wood-bezel RL Automotive watch, which now features a 39mm version in addition to the original 45mm size.

Ralph Lauren named the new RL888 collection for women after its flagship store at 888 Madison Avenue in New York. Offered in steel and rose gold, and with or without diamonds, RL888 timepieces are made in two sizes (32mm or38mm) with three-link bracelets or a selection of interchangeable straps in alligator, calf, patent leather, satin or grosgrain. The rose gold 32mm model is also available with a diamond-set bezel and embellished with a rose-cut diamond on the crown. High jewelry options are also available. Each quartz-powered timepiece displays Breguet-style hands and boasts a combination of Arabic and Roman numerals.

The collection is priced starting at $2,000, and for the first time Ralph Lauren is selling a wide-variety of colorful, French-made watch straps. With strap interchangeability, the RL888 can be personalized by the owner quickly and without tools.

The firm’s newest RL867 collection, a unisex square design previously only with leather or jeweled straps, now includes a full slate of models with a contemporary square-link bracelet.

The watch is offered in three sizes (21.5mm, 27.5mm and 32mm), in rose gold, white gold and steel, and its new bracelet links echo the signature square case and the concentric squares on the dial. For the petite models, the bracelet is integrated directly into the watchcase, creating a cuff watch. The petite 21.5mm women’s model is offered in rose gold or stainless steel with a plain bezel or a bezel set with diamonds.

RL Automotive 39mm

As a timepiece highlight for many men surveying Ralph Lauren’s timepieces, its Automotive collection hits many sweet spots for racecar and timepiece enthusiasts, including a distinctive motorcar inspiration (Lauren’s own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe), name-brand mechanical movements and rare amboyna burl wood bezels and dials.

With its 45mm diameter, however, the RL Automotive collection a few vintage-minded or smaller-wristed collectors found the initial models a bit large and expressed an interest in smaller examples. While one model in the collection, the Chronometer Steel, is available in 39mm, that watch offers a dial and case slightly different from this Automotive design and features wood on its dial rather than a wood bezel.

The designers at Ralph Lauren now have the perfect piece for these collectors. The new RL Automotive 39mm timepiece features a shot-blasted black gunmetal steel case, the amboyna burl wood bezel, and nicely contrasting beige Super-LumiNova numerals. Inside is a mechanical manual-wind movement with seventy hours of power reserve made by Jaeger-LeCoultre for Ralph Lauren.

Prices

RL888 collection starts at $1,990 and goes to $24,000.The RL888 collection will be available in-stores starting in June.

The 867 collection starts at $2,360 and goes to $31,200. The 867 collection will be available in the fall.

The Ralph Lauren RL Automotive 39mm model retails at $15,400 and will also be available in the fall.

The 43-millimeter Black Bay Bronze premiered at this year’s Baselworld and expands the Heritage Black Bay collection of watches.

Inspired by the history of Tudor and the dive watch, the watch inherits the design as well as the dial and domed crystal from the very first of the watchmaker’s diving watches. It features the prominent winding crown from the 1950 reference 7924, also known as Big Crown. The watch is named after the bronze case, a nod to the materials used in ships and other diving equipment.

The watch is powered by the Tudor MT5601 Manufacture Movement and is developed specifically to equip the Bronze model. The movement is COSC-certified and has a 70-hour power reserve. So the wearer can take off the watch on Friday night and put it on again on Monday without having to wind.

The watch is placed on a distressed leather strap and is priced at $3,975.

About Tudor
A Tudor watch lives. Pulsates. It will take you into the world of micro-precision. The high technology in all components relentlessly tested to the smallest detail... to the point of obsession. Examine the movement. Aesthetics and performance fit for the most demanding of products, designed for endurance as much as pleasure. Pleasing to the eye and exciting to the mind, this precision mechanism will withstand the rigours of time. Exceptional materials, durability and strength of design make each watch a unique object.

An impressive underground vault of almost 1,000 square meters in the former church of San Pancrazio, home of the Marino Marini Museum in Florence, is the location of the new exhibition, Panerai—Dive Into Time, opening May 18.

Never-before-seen creations from various periods within Panerai’s history are on display in this magnificent crypt, which originated in the early 9th century. Emblematic watches and instruments created for the Royal Italian Navy from the 1920s to the 1950s may be seen, as are modern-day Panerai timepieces.

But the wide-ranging exhibit does not end here. This journey through the past leads to a display of new models: twelve debuts that demonstrate the brand’s interpretation of its own history in never-ending renewal that comprises fresh technology and design.

Luminor Due

One of the new Panerai Luminor Due’s most notable features is its slim case, which is little more than 10mm thick, its lines inspired by the Luminor 1950 case. The Luminor Due 3 Days, available in 42mm steel or red gold, features the P.1000 hand-wound movement with hours, minutes, small seconds and seconds reset. In the red gold version this caliber is presented for the first time in the skeletonized P.1000/10. Here, the large brushed-finish bridge, which protects over half the surface of the caliber, has been worked to reveal part of the mechanism, including the two spring barrels. In both versions the balance (which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour) is fixed by a bridge with twin supports to ensure security and stability. Both the steel and red gold models come on a black alligator leather strap.

Also in the Luminor Due 3 Days collection is the Automatic model powered by the P.4000 caliber with a decentralized micro-rotor—the thinnest caliber produced by the Panerai Manufacture.

The thickness of the Panerai Luminor Due case measures just 10.7mm, while maintaining the integrity of the movement and the distinctive case design. There are two versions, each 45mm, one in steel and one in red gold; the dial is black on the steel version and anthracite gray on the gold model. The red gold model features the skeletonized P.4000/10 version of the movement with a 22-karat gold oscillating weight with Clous de Paris decoration, visible through the caseback.

Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic

The new Luminor Marina 1950 3 Days Automatic models differ in their dimensions, finish, materials and dial designs, but they share the functions and technical characteristics of the same movement: the P.9010 automatic caliber.

Developed and fashioned in the Panerai manufacture in Neuchâtel, the movement powers central hour and minute hands, the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. The hours can be adjusted without interfering with the movement of the minute hand, thanks to a device that directly moves only the relative hand in jumps of one hour forward or backwards, a function particularly useful when changing time zones; the hour hand is automatically connected to the date indicator.

The collection includes five different models, all with a significant reduction in the weight and thickness of the stainless steel cases compared to previous models, so that it is just 13.2mm thick in the models 42 mm in diameter and 15.6mm in those that are 44mm in diameter. In all the versions, the movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal porthole in the caseback. The white or black dials each feature a small seconds hand at 9 o’clock in an intense Panerai blue. The strap is in brown or black leather with contrasting ecru stitching.

Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater

The new Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon is the most complicated watch ever made by Panerai, and it is displayed in a fascinating room at the exhibit where the chiming of the watch can be appreciated. For more information on this watch, see Michael Thompson’s recent post.

Radiomir Firenze

Visitors will have the opportunity to observe a master engraver demonstrating the ancient technique of engraving a watchcase with a “sparsello” engraving tool. The iconic Florentine engraving is rendered on the case of the Radiomir Firenze, a watch sold exclusively at the historic Panerai boutique in the Piazza San Giovanni. At the exhibit, the model is presented as a preview showcasing a finely engraved movement as well as case.

The 34th edition of the Mille Miglia classic car race begins on May 19 in scenic Brescia, Italy, with more than 400 teams set to traverse the one-thousand-mile distance to Rome and back. As has been the case since 1988, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, a passionate racecar driver, collector and a car enthusiast, will also join the speedy motorcade, this year alongside his long-time friend Jacky Ickx in a Porsche 550 Spyder RS. The competition is reserved for classic and vintage cars that have raced in one of the historical races between 1927 and 1957.

As is the case each year, more than a few of the participants will be wearing the latest Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph.

This year’s models are issued in two limited editions. One includes 1,000 pieces in stainless steel and the other 100 pieces in rose gold. These Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Editions are powered by a new Chopard caliber, 03.05-C, a COSC-certified column-wheel chronograph. You may recall that 2015 marked the first year Chopard fitted its own Chopard-manufactured calibers into Mille Miglia models.

Surrounded with a tachymetric scale, the dial’s retro layout recalls vintage dashboards and ensures maximum readability with large numerals and luminescent hands. The 46mm model is the largest of the Mille Miglia chronographs created thus far by Chopard. The calfskin leather straps for both series’ are inspired by the leather tie-down straps on a racecar bonnet.

Prices

Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition in stainless steel: $ 9,800
Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition in rose gold: $ 24,200

The Diagono Magnesium Chronograph combines high-tech materials ensuring performance, power and agility. The watch now comes with a self-winding chronograph movement and has the aestethic of Italian sports cars with the materials in the case: magnesium, ceramic, Motorola and PEEK.

Using cutting edge materials like PEEK, which is an ultra-sturdy and light polymer used in aviation design and even medical implants is proof that Bulgari is an innovator in the horological world. Within medical implants and devices, PEEK mimics the modulus elasticity of bone, allowing the material to move with the body, a perfect choice for a watch that’s worn on the wrist for long periods of time. Although the material is light, it provides extreme wear resistance and is impervious to scratching. The watch is powered by the Caliber B130. Functions include hours, minutes, chronograph and a date display.

The watch is priced at $4,950.

About Bulgari
Company founder Sotirio Bulgari is a descendant of an ancient family of Greek silversmiths, and during the late 19th century he moved to Italy. In 1884 he opened his first shop in Via Sistina, Rome, and in 1905, with the help of his sons Costantino and Giorgio, he inaugurated the shop in Via Condotti, which today remains Bulgari’s flagship store.