With its already distinctive six-sided bezel, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas doesn’t need much more embellishment to attract attention. Since 1977 it has been home to this watchmaker’s only luxury steel sports collection, competing for the same wrists that fancy the steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, two of the other luxury steel watch pioneers.
Vacheron Constantin introduced a broad steel Overseas revamp two years ago, complete with new in-house movements and superb bracelet-strap interchangeability. While we’ve seen rich blue, silver and brown Overseas dials since that much-lauded debut, for the new Overseas chronograph we didn’t see is perhaps the sportiest three-counter chronograph dial: black with light-colored subdials, often called a ‘panda’ dial. The light/dark contrast was a favorite among early racecar drivers, and highly visible panda-style dials characterized a generation of racing-inspired chronographs, particularly in the 1960s.
Last week Vacheron Constantin filled in this gap by debuting two new Overseas models, one a 41mm black-lacquer-dialed three-hand watch, and a 42.5mm chronograph with black lacquer dial and silver-toned counters.
The chronograph version, powered by self-winding Calibre 5200, Vacheron Constantin’s excellent twin-barrel movement, is equipped with a column-wheel driving the chronograph start, stop and reset functions. At this level, the caliber also features a vertical clutch to prevent any potential jerking of the hand when the chronograph is activated.
As with most of the Overseas steel collection, these two new models also offer the same interchangeability of bracelet and strap that Vacheron Constantin built in to it when it released the new generation Overseas two years ago. As a result, either model can be worn on a metal bracelet composed of links forming half Maltese crosses, or on a strap in either leather or rubber. No tools are needed to effect the changes.
Both of these new black-dialed Vacheron Constantin Overseas models will be available in July. Prices: $30,200 (chronograph) and $20,900 (three-hand).
Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Overseas chronograph
Reference
5500V/110A-B481
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber
5200
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
22K gold Overseas oscillating weight
30.6 mm (13¼’’’) diameter, 6.6 mm thick
Approximately 52 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Indications
Hours and minutes
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Date
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute and 12-hour counters)
Case
Stainless steel
42.5 mm diameter, 13.7 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock push-pieces
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 150 meters
Dial
Black lacquered, circular satin-finished flange, snailed counters, 18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with white luminescent material
Bracelet/Straps
Steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links, delivered with a second strap in black alligator leather featuring a black nubuck lining with a micro-perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales, delivered with a third strap in black rubber
Specifications: Vacheron Constantin Overseas self-winding
Reference
4500V/110A-B483
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece
Caliber
5100
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, mechanical, self-winding
22K gold Overseas oscillating weight
30.6 mm (13¼’’’) diameter, 4.7 mm thick
Approximately 60 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
Indications
Hours and minutes
Central seconds
Date
Case
Stainless steel
41 mm diameter, 11 mm thick
Soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection
Screwed-down crown
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at 150 meters
Dial
Black lacquered, circular satin-finished flange
18K white gold hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with white luminescent material
Bracelet/Straps
Stainless steel bracelet, half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links
Delivered with a second strap in black alligator leather, featuring a black nubuck lining with a micro-perforated effect, hand-stitched, large square scales
Delivered with a third strap in black rubber
Clasps
Stainless steel bracelet secured by a stainless steel triple-blade folding clasp with push-pieces and comfort-adjustment system