During this year’s Baselworld, Vulcain debuted a new Cricket caliber, the in-house Manufacture V-40. The movement is a 12-lignes mechanical hand-wound caliber with 24 jewels and 162 components.
This Cricket movement powers all of the new 50s Presidents’ Watch Tradition models, the caliber that gave the watchmaker their name. Many U.S Presidents, such as Dwight Eisenhower, Lyndon Johnson and Harry Truman have worn Vulcain Crickets. The watchmaker even created a specialized model for Obama during his 2008 inauguration.
The 50s Presidents’ Watch functions include center hour and minutes, an alarm at 4 o’clock, which will sound for 20 seconds and seconds at 8 o’clock. Within the 44 millimeter 316L steel case is a dial decorated with ruthenium or silver sunray and “clous de Paris” at the center motif with rhodium indexes. This gives the watch a multi-layered look and offers an easy read of the time.
The watch is available on a matte black strap.
About Vulcain
A century and a half of watchmaking passion, as well as 150 years of creation, innovation and expertise patiently acquired and now devoted to defending the demanding values of Haute Horlogerie. Founded in 1858, the workshop of the Ditisheim brothers – which was to give rise to the Vulcain brand – immediately earned itself an enviable reputation through its complication watches, which received awards at several World Fairs. Discover more about Vulcain here.
For years now, every first Wednesday of the month marks the New York City Breitling Wednesday Night Flight. This very casual gathering educates invited guests about different aspects of Breitling’s watches, while of course serving up some really mean cocktails.
The monthly gathering now has a new location. Breitling a few months ago opened the doors of its new flagship New York City boutique on the southeast corner of 57thstreet and Madison Ave, just down the block from the brand’s original New York boutique address. Madison Avenue for timepiece enthusiasts is something of a “watch alley” as it is the street where most watch manufacturers have mono-brand boutiques. Breitling now anchors a very desirable corner on one of the most expensive streets in NYC.
Breitling Night Flights tend to be educational, and the March installment was all about schooling visitors to the new boutique. While I enjoyed the former boutique and had many great memories there, this shorter and wider corner space is really something spectacular, especially with the open view onto two major New York thoroughfares.
To no one’s surprise, inside one will find a massive collection of Kevin Kelly paintings covering numerous walls of the boutique along with the iconic “Bombing Betty” statue sitting at the very top. Compared to the original boutique, where most of the seating areas were against one wall, this new locale has all chairs and tables spread out all over the space. It offers a little more privacy when viewing watches.
Like the previous boutique, this new space also has a fully stocked bar and is ready for the many events that Breitling undoubtedly has planned. Thankfully, they also decided to keep the Breitling museum, a series of displays that show highlights from the brand’s history. There are new exhibits here: a 1995 Chronomat Frecce Tricolore and the Blue Angels Emergency Mission. Another upgrade is the massive L.E.D screen that takes up an entire wall and projects in stunning high definition. It’s hard to miss whatever Breitling is playing on the screen out on Madison Avenue.
For more information please visit www.Breitling.com. If you want to attend a Wednesday Night Flight, visit the Breitling Boutique now located on 57thstreet and Madison Avenue and one of the boutique associates can get you on that list.
“I like places and objects that transform us that take us somewhere else for a day, an evening or just a moment. I like the romance of films, cars, Cole Porter tunes and FrankSinatra songs. They all have one thing in common: they are ageless. They are timeless.” Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 32mm model features a 18 carat rose gold case with a purple or a blue dial. Translucent blue or purple lacquer on the dial enables one to admire the central “barleycorn” guilloché décor.
The Breguet-style golden-varnished hands contrast with the translucent purple lacquered with central guilloché décor. The Roman golden numerals are printed on the dial. The watch is placed on a black alligator with black Alsavel® lining.
Featuring the Swiss manufacture Caliber RL057 movement with Côtes de Geneve, the watch has a battery life of about 60 months. The perfectly round and thin case display polished casebacks and host the caliber for carefree maintenance.
The piece pictured is priced at $7,800 and the purple dial with diamonds is $11,500. Also available with a blue dial.
About Ralph Lauren
Unveiled at SIHH in 2009, Ralph Lauren timepieces are created in the purest tradition of Swiss watchmaking by master artisans. These precision instruments contain movements manufactured within the Richemont Group, using only the finest materials. Both modern and timeless, Ralph Lauren watches are the ultimate expression of the Ralph Lauren lifestyle. Lauren notes, “I have waited a long time to create and introduce timepieces that I feel exemplify the ultimate in luxury and quality.” Discover more about Ralph Lauren here.
After a whirlwind week in Switzerland, team iW has narrowed down a few standout timepieces seen in the halls of Baselworld 2016. Today’s category focuses on one of the most complicated mechanisms, the tourbillon. Made to counteract the negative effect gravity can have on timekeeping precision, the tourbillon is an escapement packed inside a rotating carriage with the balance at the center. Our memorable tourbillons include models from Ulysse Nardin, Manufacture Royale, Arnold & Son, Breguet and Girard-Perregaux. Read on for a closer look at these miniature marvels.
Sitting a mere 8.34 millimeters off the wrist, the Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton is one of the thinnest skeletonized tourbillons now on the market. Limited to just 50 pieces, the UTTE Skeleton is powered by the A&S8220 caliber, a movement based off of the A&S8200. While the A&S8220 maintains its predecessor’s three-dimensional tourbillon cage and ultra-thinness, it was completely re-designed to achieve a skeletonize aesthetic, new tourbillon bridges and a modified main plate. The red gold case measures 42 millimeters in diameter and is affixed with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with matching red gold buckle.
Utilizing the brand’s renowned three-bridge design, the Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon is an homage to the brand’s 225 years of watchmaking. La Esmeralda Tourbillon was directly inspired by the “The Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges,” a pocket chronometer which won the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889. The GP09400-0004 powers the timepiece and its functions include hours, minutes and small seconds. The tourbillon is comprised of 80 components and rests at 6 o’clock. The case measures 44 millimeters in diameter and is forged from pink gold.
The Manufacture Royale Micromegas is powered by the new MR04, which features two tourbillons—rotating at different speeds. The first cage, on the left, makes one revolution in six seconds. The second, on the right, completes its rotation in sixty seconds. The two are connected by a torque stabilizer that gets its energy from the barrel. In addition to its precision, the MR04 offers power reserve of approximately 80 hours that is maintained by automatic winding. Mesmerizing to watch, lovely to wear.
Breguet pioneered an entirely new way of construction by building a timepiece around a predetermined sound with the Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087. The timepiece contains six new patents and five new elements including reworked gong springs striking vertically, toward the bezel. The timepiece also contains an acoustic chamber built into the case, which increases the sound of the minute repeater while filtering out sounds from the mechanism itself. Powering the Bréguet Tradition Répétition Minutes Tourbillon 7087, the caliber 565DR. The mechanism includes a bi-directional rotor located on the periphery of the movement and an inverted lateral lever escapement features silicon pallets.
The Ulysse Nardin Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon, flies its nautical flag very high and was designed in collaboration with Christophe Claret. The timepiece features a central jump-hour window and a retrograde-minute in the form of a ship’s mast pulled with nanowire via pulleys and winches, traveling back and forth from 0 to 60. Ulysse Nardin then replicates the teak wood deck of a sailboat with wood marquetry on the dial. Oh, and there’s also a one-minute flying tourbillon rotating on that deck. The watch is both playful and technically interesting.
After Apollo 15’s mission commander Dave Scottmade lunar history—while wearing his personal Bulova chronograph—the watchmaker is making history again. The Moon Watch replicates that original timepiece, updated with exclusive high performance quartz movement with a frequency of 262 kHz for accuracy, continuing a history of precision timing.
The watch premiered at this year’s Baselworld and is a new look for the company. Scott’s actual watch auctioned last year for about 2 million dollars. Bulova presents this affordable model but retains the same aesthetic. The watch features a three-year warranty as well.
Other features include super-luminous hands and markers, anti-reflective sapphire glass, tachymeter and calendar all housed in a solid 316L surgical-grade stainless steel case in silver-tone with black dial. Two interchangeable straps are included — one a textured black leather; the other, a black nylon with a nubuck leather patch that commemorates the date of mission (DOM) as 08021971.
The watch is priced at $550.
About Bulova
In 1870, Joseph Bulova arrived in New York to later open his first jewelry store in lower Manhattan. Over the years, watchmaking came to the forefront of the Bulova brand. Today, the company still rests on its foundation of excellence in technique and artistry. Discover more about Bulova here.
The HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon , which is within the Royal Collection is inspired by company founder John Arnold’s earliest timepieces. The model pays tribute to the watches he produced for King George III and members of the royal court.
For the first time, the HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon displays the moon phases as they can be seen both from the northern and southern hemispheres respectively, all in a single watch. The 42-millimeter case is created in 18-karat red gold and houses the manufacture Arnold & Son mechanical hand-wound movement, the caliber A&S1512. The caliber is also equipped with a double barrel to yield 90 hours of power reserve.
The watch is priced at $30,500
About Arnold & Son
Dating back to 1764, John Arnold began the Arnold and Son dynasty in London, where he designed watches for wealthy clientele including royalty. His success skyrocketed after Arnold presented the smallest repeating watch ever made to King George III. With his patents for a detent escapement, bimetallic balance and helical balance spring, Arnold was one of the most inventive watchmakers of his day. Today, both the Royal collection and Instrument collection tell a story reflecting the brand’s legacy of opulent artistry and innovation. Discover more about Arnold & Son here.
After a whirlwind week in Switzerland, team iW has narrowed down a few standout timepieces seen in the halls of Baselworld 2016. Today’s category focuses on some of the most stylish dress watches on the market. Although timepieces house various complications, what unites the models is their masculine style. Our memorable dress watches include models from Zenith, Omega, Chopard, BALL Watch and Glashütte Original. Continue reading for a closer look.
The Omega Globemaster “Annual Calendar” begins its evolution with a new case diameter that has been increased from 39mm to 41mm. This new size allows for greater visibility of the “Pie Pan” dial that is already a renowned feature of the Globemaster series. The dial is also presented in a brand new lustrous shade of grey and reintroduces a classic cross design that is reminiscent of vintage Constellation models.
The most prominent element of this update is the new movement that drives the Annual Calendar feature. It has been designed with an instantaneous jump, while on the dial, each month has been elegantly positioned between the blued indexes. The months are pointed to by a varnished blue hand. The polished hour and minute hands are blued and facetted. They are coated with Super-Luminova, along with the indexes. The case itself has been crafted from stainless steel and, similar to last year’s successful launch, the polished fluted bezel has been made with scratchproof tungsten carbide. Created in the true spirit of Omega, the Globemaster houses the brand’s most advanced mechanical movement and features a design inspired by early Constellation models.
Ball Watch celebrates 125 years with this 40mm rose gold limited edition (125 pieces) addition to the Ball Watch Trainmaster series. The case has a diameter of 40mm and a height of 10mm. The handsome dress model features slim hour and second hands, date, Arabic 6 and 12 and very thin markers. Manufacture, inscribed on the dial, refers to the almost entirely revamped and upgraded ETA movement (Ball RRM1101). Still, even on the slim hands Ball adds its characteristic H₃ micro gas tubes to enable night reading.
Shining with an entirely new movement, the Glashütte Original Senator Excellence features a power reserve of up to 100 hours, a first for Glashütte Original. The unusually high power reserve is achieved even though the Caliber 36 is fitted with only one spring barrel. The watchmakers achieved their goals by increasing the barrel’s diameter, shrinking the barrel arbor, and lengthening the mainspring.
Via the caseback you’ll note familiar features like a characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate, a skeletonized rotor, a refined stripe finish, perlage, blued screws and finely wrought decorations on the wheels and rotor track. But also visible is a newly engineered gear train that, with its open architecture, will perform its function with added visual élan at each manual winding.
When it’s time for dress-up, the classic and minimalist design of the Zenith Elite 6150 fills the bill. With its 42 millimeter slim steel case, it fits perfectly with the thinner-is-in trend in watches. Measuring 9.4mm thick, it also features a transparent sapphire crystal caseback for a personal view of the new Elite 6150 automatic movement. The silver-toned dial is graced with rhodium-plated and faceted hands, and the hour markers are engraved and also rhodium plated.
The Zenith Elite 6150 movement is just 3.92mm thick and features 195 components and 35 jewels. It beats at a frequency of 28,000 vibrations per hour, and it offers an amazing power reserve boasting a minimum of 100 hours. True to Zenith’s attention to detail, the oscillating weight is decorated with the Côtes de Genève motif. The watch comes on an elegant black alligator leather strap with rubber lining.
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 celebrates twenty years of the L.U.C collection as a reprised, slightly larger example of the first model, the L.U.C 1860. The 40mm L.U.C XPS 1860 comes in a choice of a steel-cased model or a limited edition rose gold model. Like the original, the new model remains an elegant, thin (7.2mm) and dressy design with a central hand-guilloché motif on the rose gold version and a sunburst satin-brushed pattern on the stainless steel version. Inside the gold model is Caliber L.U.C 96.01-L (with Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark), a caliber with a micro-rotor and 65-hour power reserve that was well ahead of its time when it debuted two decades ago. Inside the steel version Chopard places L.U.C 96.03-L.
Opulence and high mechanics ruled the halls of Baselworld 2016 for ladies timepieces. iW Managing Editor and resident ladies category expert, Nancy Olson, compiled some of the most memorable ladies watches from this year’s show. She notes common themes among the models, including historical roots and decorative design with unique materials. Read on for more on Blancpain, Breguet, Fabergé, Dior, Hermès, Rolex, Harry Winston and Patek Philippe.
Blancpain Ladybird
Though I’d seen captivating pictures of the new Ladybird, the “real thing” is indeed a stunner. At the time of its original launch in 1956, the Ladybird was powered by what was then the smallest round movement on the market. And this year, as the Ladybird turns sixty, Blancpain is introducing a new limited edition of sixty pieces featuring an elaborate dial motif. The 21.5mm white gold watch is set with thirty-two diamonds on the bezel and eight diamonds on the mother-of-peal dial, while inside is a self-winding movement with silicon balance spring.
Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame 9087
As a huge fan of Breguet (who isn’t?) I was looking forward to seeing the new 30mm Classique Phase de Lune Dame 9087 with its white grand feu enamel dial featuring a moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock. Brilliant-cut diamonds grace the bezel and lugs of this white gold timepiece, which is also available in rose gold or with a mother-of-pearl dial. Inside is the self-winding Breguet 537L caliber visible through the caseback. Purely elegant is the only proper way to describe this watch.
Fabergé Lady Levity
The new Lady Levity from the Dalliance collection is inspired by a rock crystal desk clock created by Fabergé workmaster, Henrik Wigstrom, in Saint Petersburg around 1910. This wristwatch is powered by the Agenhor-produced AGH 6911 caliber conceived by modern-day horological workmaster Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder of Agenhor (also responsible for last year’s Fabergé Lady Compliquée). The 36mm platinum watch employs stylized indicators to display the time on the peripheral dial: a crescent moon for hours and a rising sun for minutes.
Dior Grand Soir Kaleidiorscope
Embroideries as might be observed through a kaleidoscope are the inspiration for this new series of eight unique pieces in the Grand Soir collection, now at 36mm. The architectural dial shown here is embellished with mother-of-pearl, gold petals and precious stones while the bezel is set with geometrically shaped stones. Inside is an Elite automatic caliber by Zenith with an openwork spiral caseback revealing a lacquered oscillating weight complementing the dial. The watch comes on a denim strap—a fetching juxtaposition of casualness and quintessential Dior aplomb.
Hermès Slim d’Hermès Mille Fleurs du Mexique
Entirely crafted within the in-house workshops, the Slim d’Hermès Mille Fleurs du Mexique draws its dial inspiration from a Hermès silk scarf by graphic designer Laetitia Bianchi. In my opinion, the stunning hand craftsmanship is best appreciated “in the flesh,” as the hand-painted mother-of-pearl dial comes to life in gorgeous color. The motif features lifelike cut leaves and flowers reminiscent of the 15th and 16th century tapestries after which the watch is named. This 39.5mm white gold timepiece is part of a six-piece limited edition, each driven by the self-winding H1950 movement.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
Rolex is introducing the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in either yellow or Everose Rolesor versions or a combination of 904L steel and either 18-karat yellow or Everose gold. These models feature a redesigned case enlarged to 28mm and a mechanical movement, caliber 2236, equipped with a Rolex-patented Syloxi hairspring. The new size serves it well.
Harry Winston Premier Precious Weaving Automatic 36mm
The Premier Precious Weaving Automatic 36mm features a Japanese technique in which threads of gold are woven with slivers of natural mother-of-pearl to create a unique tapestry. There are just thirty pieces in each of four variations. Shown here is the rose gold version with a woven chrysanthemum dial décor. The Premier collection was introduced in 1989 and was designed to showcase the brand’s expertise in rare artistic crafts.
Patek Philippe Calatrava, Ref. 7122
Patek Philippe is debuting the Calatrava, Ref. 7122 (replacing the 7120), for ladies. The diamond-set gold watch is powered by the manually wound caliber 215 PS with a Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring, and the case measures in at a new 33mm size. The white lacquer dial features applied hour markers and leaf-shaped hands in 18-karat gold to match the case. Subsidiary seconds are indicated at 6 o’clock. Pictured is the Timeless White, Ref. 7122-200, on a white alligator strap.
The first Swarovski watch for woman with a Swiss-made automatic movement debuted at Baselworld 2016. The Crystalline Hours Watch features beautiful crystalline lines, which are eye-catching and glamorous, making it a perfect watch for a night out or a special occasion.
The Crystalline Hours Watch was created in collaboration with watch designer, Eric Giroud. The timepiece is infused with a touch of glamour, featuring a round face and a curvy domed case containing approximately 4,000 faceted crystals.
The watch is available on a white leather strap with an embossed crocodile structure and a stainless steel case or a black leather strap with an embossed crocodile structure and a stainless steel case with rose-gold tone coating. The watch is water resistant up to 50 meters.
Price: $1,250
About Swarovski
For over a century, Swarovski has continually grown to become the world leader for sparkling crystal creations. Swarovski CGB offers an array of collections, which include jewelry, fashion accessories, watches, figurines, and home accessories. Discover more here.
Nearly a week after Baselworld 2016 closed its doors, team iW discusses trends seen throughout the halls. Continue reading for a recap on the world of horology post-basel.
Tim Mosso
At Baselworld 2016, calendar watches were the new moon phase. While lunar complications seemed to dominate the trade show circuit in 2015, the calendar watch genre was ubiquitous at every price point and within every product class. As manufacturers turned their focus to value, this most practical of complications came to the fore.
Rolex led the line with two “Rolex Green”-dialed Day-Date 40 iterations in honor of the 60th anniversary of the calendar class’ elder statesman. Based on the Day-Date 40 debut model from Basel 2015, the new rose gold 218235 and white gold 218239 act as a double-barreled tribute to a nameplate long regarded as the unofficial “flagship” of the industry’s most prominent brand. Both examples reprise the core elements of the classic Day-Date (e.g., automatic winding, day window, date window, Oyster case) with the case size (40mm) and 70-hour caliber (3255) that arrived with the Day-Date 40 family in 2015. As with previous Rolex anniversary specials including the 2003 Submariner 16610LV and the 2013 Daytona 116206, the new Day-Date 40 is likely to endure as a standout edition and fixture in its model line.
In the upper echelon of complexity and stature, Chopard answered the call with a classic Baselworld “statement” debut. The 20th anniversary of Chopard as a manufacture served as a launch pad for the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono. A 43mm white gold limited edition of 20 pieces, the Perpetual Chrono combines every thread of modern Chopard know-how. With Geneva Hallmark-levels of finish, C.O.S.C. chronometer certification, Fairmined Gold case material, and a classic column wheel architecture, the Perpetual Chrono and its manual caliber LUC 03.10-L ensure a unique experience for the fortunate few. Chopard completes the impressive package with an elaborate guilloche ruthenium-coated dial adorned with white gold Roman numerals. More than an impressive package, there is a beauty and coherence to the L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono that is exceptional even in this rarefied class of timepiece. The rich textures of the dial, the polished and matte contrasts, and the judicious use of colors creates a true sense of occasion befitting Manufacture Chopard’s two-decade anniversary.
Value asserted itself throughout Baselworld 2016, and nowhere was this more evident than at Frédérique Constant. The Geneva-based brand offered a compelling combination of value and capability with the launch of the Slimline Perpetual Calendar. With a complete (day-date-month) calendar, moon phase display, and leap year indicator, the new Slimline Perpetual imposes no compromises in features or functions. Moreover, the caliber FC-775 boasts an in-house pedigree often lacking in this price bracket. Three variants of the 42mm automatic Slimline will be offered in either plated rose gold or polished stainless steel, and the price of admission – $8,795 for the steel variant – represents a real breakthrough for a watch in this class of complication. Frédérique Constant explicitly touts its cause as “accessibly luxury,” and the Slimline Perpetual Calendar delivers on both counts.
Nola Martin
Whether the reasoning was due to the changes in the economy, adjusting to the consumer’s desires, or improvements in technical processes, watch companies released many more products with value in mind during this Baselworld fair.
For example, announcements such as the Tudor Heritage Black Bay collection, starting at $3,675, presents an in-house mechanical movement MT5602 complete with COSC certification. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay also won the GPHG Revival Prize in 2014, which adds to its appeal. Might I also add, this 41mm dive watch incorporates historic design cues from the 1950s and looks great on the wrist. Furthermore, Tudor sets up their offerings to attract a broader market with the Tudor Style collection starting at 1,900 Swiss francs, or about $2,150.
Manufactures of haute horlogerie also look to expand their customer base by offering a lower entry price point. The stainless steel Nebula from Arnold & Son is a great example. This time-only watch offers in-house manufacture movement, A&S5101, with impressive engineering that creates a precise yet visually appealing design. The skeletonized movement is a mechanical beauty with hand-finishes like chamfered bridges and wheels to beveled screws with mirror polishing, all for $14,500.
Additionally, brands like Frederique Constant and TAG Heuer brought tremendous value for money with spot-on releases during Baselworld. The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T, a COSC-certified automatic chronograph combined with a titanium and carbon flying tourbillon, signifiigantly drops the price for a tourbillon. A super low price of $15,950 for a tourbillon timepiece and allows more collectors to to get in the game. Frederique Constant continues to create affordable luxury with a Quantième Perpetuel, which keeps the date on track during the short months and through leap years. The Manufacture Perpetual Calendar price tag is $8,700 and certainly fits that mold of affordable luxury given that a perpetual calendar typically tends to cost a small fortune.
Nancy Olson
Beautifully decorated dials on ladies watches were evident throughout Baselworld 2016 in the form of miniature painting on mother-of-pearl, stone setting, enameling and even weaving. Following are just a few examples of the indomitable artistic spirit ever present in the art of watchmaking.
Bulgari’s Lucea has highlighted the house’s artistic crafts on its models since 2013, magnificently reinterpreting a garden theme. This year’s Il Giardino Paradiso includes two watches with elaborately decorated dials whose flora and fauna décor features a colorful bird of paradise motif on blue mother-of-pearl.
The dial of Fabergé’s Lady Libertine I represents the Zambian terrain, home to Gemfields’ Kagem emerald mine and the source of the emeralds used to decorate this watch. The stylized relief features a mixture of snow-set polished and rough emeralds with fine gold filigree outlining the banks of the region’s rivers.
This kaleidoscopic watch dial from Dior is one of eight unique pieces in the Grand Soir Kaleidiorscope collection. The face shown here is embellished with pink gold, yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds, opals, mother-of-pearl and onyx, surrounded by a bezel set with triangle-cut pink sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds.
Sculpted gold is a technique used to create the lifelike scenes on the onyx dials of the Mademoiselle Privé Coromandel Sculpted Gold Flying Birds collection, which is inspired by Coromandel lacquer panels. Chanel’s proprietary beige gold is shaped, engraved and oxidized and mother-of-pearl is exactingly cut, resulting in a highly detailed and realistic motif. For 2016, a “trembling” effect has been added, making the birds seem to take flight.
Michael Thompson
At Baselworld 2016 many of the premiere debuts pointedly reference vintage designs. While historical homage is standard practice for any brand proud of a long, successful lineage, this year we saw what seemed like a greater reliance on previously penned case and dial profiles. The result was a show with, all told, fewer truly novel timepieces, at least among the major brands. (AHCI watchmakers as usual broke with this trend, which always makes the AHCI stands a worthy stop during Baselworld.)light with each movement of the wrist.
With so many major brand collection anniversaries in 2016, perhaps such a retro-focus was to be expected. In addition, the added pressure of recent and projected economic challenges very likely has watch designers and marketing teams dissuaded from taking too many risks with increasingly wary watch consumers.
Among the most prominent redux in 2016 was Rolex with its newly Arabic-dialed Air-King, now at 40mm, and Tudor, which debuted the Black Bay Dark with its crown, dial, hands and crystal clearly referencing earlier Tudor dive watches. Both of these debuts were certified Baselworld buzz pieces, as was Girard-Perregaux’s revisitation of its mid-1970’s Laureato, TAG Heuer’s anniversary focused Heuer Monza Chronograph and Omega’s Globemaster Annual Calendar. Basel attendees (myself included) and online enthusiasts are roundly applauding these vintage-tinged debuts. Here are a few details and additional notable retro-debuts
That TAG Heuer Monza Chronograph updates the cushion-cased classic from the 1970s and adds orange SuperLuminova indices and a grade 5 titanium (previously steel) case coated with titanium carbide. The diameter has also been increased (from 39mm on the original models to 42mm). Inside, the Caliber 17 automatic chronograph, with two counters at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock – evokes even more retro pleasure.
The Tudor Black Bay Dark, as noted above, inherits its profile (especially its domed dial and crystal) from earlier Tudor dive watches. Also prominent is the winding crown that recalls the Tudor 7924 reference of 1958, known as the Big Crown.
Zenith’s Heritage Pilot Café Racer boasts its vintage bona fides in its name. You decide if its pilot watch forebears fit with a stylized two-wheel racing bike.
With decades of delicious design, Movado has finally added a ongoing retro-style collection, called Movado Heritage Series, and kicks it off with this Movado Calendoplan chronograph, inspired by a 1950s Movado Calendoplan. The 2016 version features a 43mm yellow gold ion-plated steel case with matching quartz chronograph pushers and crown.
Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition is a generously sized retro-style timepiece issued in a 1,000-piece stainless steel edition. It is clearly inspired by the design codes of the cars that took part in the historical Mille Miglia race between 1927 and 1940. Inside is thoroughly modern COSC-certified Chopard Caliber 03.05-C, a new mechanical self-winding movement equipped with a column wheel.
The serpent is one of the oldest mythological symbols representing good and evil, wisdom, life and eternity, and it may be seen on everything from ancient religious artifacts to the caduceus, the symbol of modern medicine.
Bulgari began producing snake-inspired bracelets in the late 1940s, and the design immediately took hold, laying the groundwork for the ensuing decades’ serpent-inspired watch designs.
In the 1960s, a variety of Tubogas-style Serpenti watches were introduced in yellow gold, white gold or a combination, and various enamel examples were also offered, many with diamond and other gemstone accents. Also during this era, a specially made Serpenti adorned the wrist of Elizabeth Taylor on the set of “Cleopatra,” further drawing attention to this icon-in-the-making and no doubt enhancing its already-wide appeal.
These snake bracelets and watches required a high degree of craftsmanship. Focused attention was paid to authentic detail, and certain species of snakes inspired certain bracelet colorations. The reptiles’ names were even subtly engraved in Italian on the tails in a touch of whimsy. Other enamel snakes were inspired by fashion rather than nature: sunny yellow snakes shone with red scales while white scales glittered against bright turquoise. The gold pentagon-shaped scales were individually enameled then fired before being painstakingly assembled with tiny screws.
Interestingly, Bulgari partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin to create movements for snake timepieces, and these Swiss brands continued creating watches with Bulgari into the early 1970s, with most of the watches possessing dual signatures. An octagon-shaped watchcase made by Vacheron Constantin is seen on several Bulgari Tubogas snake watches of that era, but by 1978, due to the opening of a manufacturing facility in Switzerland called Bulgari Time, Write & Light, the Tubogas watch bracelets featured Bulgari-made watches exclusively.
In the 1980s, the taste for luxury goods was on the upswing and brand logos became the rage. Thus the Bulgari-Bulgari watch paired with a Tubogas serpent-style bracelet became popular and in fact was so successful, that it was continuously produced for almost thirty years. Renditions from the 1980s include yellow and white gold models, while the 1990s saw a steel version for the first time.
In 2014, coinciding with the year of Bulgari’s 130th anniversary, a rare Bulgari Serpenti watch from 1965 set a new world record at Christie’s. This extraordinary piece, which surpassed the estimate of between $300,780 and $417,750, reached a final hammer price of $1,107,038.
The Serpenti continues to reinvent itself with each passing decade, and this year’s Baselworld debuted an entirely new design: the Serpenti Incantata, wherein the snake wraps itself around the watch dial. Each part of the iconic snake’s head and body was redesigned, creating a wholly new and contemporary look. The Serpenti Incantata (“Enchanted Snake”) comes in a variety of styles and sizes, including a Skeleton Tourbillon model with a mechanical movement (BVL caliber 208) that perfectly marries Bulgari’s high jewelry expertise with haute horlogerie.
The new Serpenti Spiga, which Bulgari describes as “boldly rock’n’roll,” is a new iteration of the Tubogas-style Serpenti, this time crafted in black or white high-tech ceramic. The diamond-set gold bezel and the tip of the tail, also in gold, are elegant reminders of Bulgari’s roots in jewelry. So, too, the new Serpenti Jewellery, which comes in combinations of metals or with diamonds, colored mother-of-pearl, turquoise and other precious gems. The Serpenti Five-Coil Tubogas is a dramatic take on the well-loved snake with its curved 35mm steel case, 18-karat pink gold bezel set with diamonds, a black opaline dial, and multiple coils in 18-karat pink gold and steel.
The future no doubt holds new and exciting takes on the famous Bulgari Serpenti, proving that good design, abiding symbolism and a willingness to evolve are winning ingredients for timeless appeal.
Always out-of-the-box and hyper masculine, ArtyA keeps innovating with their Cumbere Tourbillon. The case of the watch is shaped like a guitar, seen in other Son of Sound collection pieces. This watch is powered by a hand-wound flying tourbillon movement, which was designed by ArtyA founder Yvan Arpa and made by Manufacture d’Horlogerie Contemporaine. The movement is housed in a fully open-worked X-shaped structure, which was inspired by the bracing of guitars. This light-flooded watch thus reveals all the subtle details of its Haute Horlogerie finishes, notably including hand beveling and artisan-style ageing of the engravings.
About ArtyA
ArtyA was founded in 2010 as the result of Yvan Arpa’s search for his own niche in the watch industry. After working at a lesser-known Swiss watch brand, the former math teacher began creating watches for Hublot and later Romain Jerome- as its CEO- where he excelled at turning the highly unusual into something unique, controversial and sought-after. Discover more about ArtyA here.
When a sporty chronograph with a deep-green fir-tree-pattern dial flashed on the screen at the always well-attended Baselworld Seiko press conference, many seasoned watch enthusiasts in the room did a double take. The watch, one of five new Grand Seikos for 2016, is not the first chronograph in the primarily dressy Grand Seiko collection, but with and all-black case, re-designed pushers, new ceramic GMT bezel and that fir-tree motif dial (inspired by the Onbashira festival held every six years near Seiko’s Suwa studio), the watch instantly and boldly underscored the global success story of the Grand Seiko collection.
Since its expansion to points outside Japan in 2010 Grand Seiko has generated outsized enthusiasm among collectors. The collection’s fully in-house manufacture has long demonstrated a distinctive personality and legendary technical prowess that includes numerous prizes for accuracy by Swiss (and other) observatories and testing organizations. Indeed, Seiko’s own internal accuracy tests are more stringent than even the chronometer standards used by many Swiss watch companies. Yet because Seiko couldn’t make enough Grand Seiko pieces to officially distribute them overseas, that accuracy remained primarily for domestic Japanese consumption until Seiko’s decision to expand Grand Seiko globally six years ago.
This year’s newest Grand Seiko pieces include four 46.4mm Spring Drive Black Ceramic Limited Edition models and a 43mm platinum Spring Drive eight-day model with a stunning diamond-dust dial. The Black Ceramic Limited Edition pieces include the above-noted green-dialed example (SBGC17) and a black-dialed chronograph GMT (SBGC015) plus two GMT models with power reserve indication (SBGE015 and SBGE017).
The Black Ceramic watches each feature a five-piece case built for both strength and lightness. The inner case is made from high-intensity titanium and the outer shells and bezel are a particularly hard zirconia ceramic. Seiko says this combination of materials makes the case 25% lighter than stainless steel and virtually impervious to scratches. While the black case color for these models, and the fir tree pattern on one example, are new to Grand Seiko, the clear ridges on the facets of the case and the diamond-cut hands and markers clearly mark the watches as Grand Seiko.
The new Spring Drive Eight-Day Power Reserve (SBGD001) is the first Grand Seiko watch to have been created at Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in central Japan. Known primarily for its Credor Spring Drive Minute Repeater, Sonnerie and Eichi watches, the Micro Artist Studio with this watch has developed a special Spring Drive manual-wind caliber with eight-day power reserve by combining three barrels and a one-piece bridge to deliver precision equal to plus-or-minus 10 seconds per month. Seiko says the unusual bridge reduces shock and also ‘ensures the precise positioning of each wheel in the gear train and maximizes the efficiency of the transmission of power from the barrels.
That bridge is not simply large. Its form traces the outline of Mt. Fuji while its polished rubies and tempered blue screws evoke the lights of the city of Suwa near the Studio’s home. The case is made of a special alloy of platinum that can be polished to a sparkling mirror finish using the Zaratsu technique, a steel blade polishing method that Seiko has adapted for working with platinum.
These newest Grand Seiko watches expand the collections offerings just one year after it debuted a limited edition chronograph in celebration of the collection’s 55th year. In addition, last year marked the launch of eight re-created versions of the Grand Seiko 62GS, the first Grand Seiko automatic watch that debuted in 1967. Below we show you these as well a several other historic Grand Seiko models.
Just in time for boating season and summer vacations, dive watches were a particular highlight at this year’s Baselworld. Here, iW has compiled five standout dive timepieces from the show. Read on for more on Omega, Alpina, Oris, Hamilton and Tudor.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer is a part of the Planet Ocean collection that celebrates ocean exploration. One of the most legitimate facets of the piece is the helium escape valve, a decompression system, which allows helium to escape from the inside when the watch is worn for professional use in pressure chambers. The 43.5 millimeter steel case It is also available as a GMT or a chronograph. The watch will be available in stores in July 2016.
Echoing a 1960s Alpina dive watch, this is the vintage version of the equally impressive Seastrong Diver 300 Automatic, another 2016 Alpina debut. But instead of that latter model’s single crown, this Heritage version utilizes two crowns, one for winding and adjusting the hands, the other for adjusting the internal diving time rotating ring in both directions. The design, issued with two vintage dial styles, makes for both a safe and thinner dive watch. With a more modern 42 millimeter steel case, the watch’s engraved, screwed caseback resists water pressure to 300 meters.
Oris always offers more than few well-priced, professional-grade dive models. But as Oris’ first bronze watch, and a handsome one at that, the Carl Brashear Limited Edition gets my nod for my ‘best of’ list. Bronze is initially bright and shiny, but the case and the unidirectional rotating bezel of this retro-themed watch will gradually darken a bit over time. The automatic watch is a commemorative model that pays tribute to Carl Brashear, the U.S. Navy’s first African-American master diver. The watch owes its design in part to the look of deep-sea diving helmets from the 1950s. The 2,000-piece limited edition is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is fitted with Oris Cal. 733, based on Sellita SW200, with date at 6 o’clock. The watch arrives in a nicely made wooden box with U.S. Navy Master Diver badge on the inside of the cover.
What do rubber, titanium, portholes and blockbuster movies have in common? All are elements of the exciting 2016 relaunch of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman watch. This revival is a tribute to a piece of real and onscreen diving history: the iconic submersible watch created for the US naval frogmen teams and featured in the 1951 movie The Frogmen and the brand’s very first on-screen appearance. This first appearance in the film industry, in which the company has become a leader, has its roots in military reputation that dates back to World War I and II when Hamilton, founded in 1892, equipped the U.S. military.
In keeping with its double billing as a super-sporty watch and stylish accessory, the 2016 standout 46 millimeter titanium model is clearly built to meet the high demands of its underwater vocation. Large surfaces ensure easy readability and high-tech specs include an edgy, red unidirectional rotating bezel. The latter frames a black dial with luminescent triple-facetted hands. The red-trimmed tip of the seconds hand highlights its role as an operating indicator and a vital feature of diver’s model.
Tudor’s Heritage Black Bay Dark is new addition to the Heritage Black Bay family, this diver’s watch in matt black steel draws its characteristic elements from Tudor’s history. It inherits the general lines, as well as the domed dial and crystal from the first Tudor diving watches. It features the particularly prominent winding crown from the famous 7924 reference of 1958, aka the “Big Crown”, while its characteristic angular hands, known as “snowflake”, were borrowed from TUDOR watches used by the French National Navy in the 1970s. The 41 millimeter wide steel case, finished with a black PVD-treated coating. The watch has an entirely satin finished matte finish, giving it the appearance of black military equipment. It’s powered by the MT5602 Manufacture Movement.
The 40 millimeter case holds the manually wound mechanical movement, Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q. The movement is the facet highlighted here powering the many complications included.
Functions of the movement include a split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar instantaneous 30-second counter. On the dial there are day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures. The watchmaker includes an interchangeable full back and sapphire-crystal case back so the wearer can choose which look he or she likes the most.
About Patek Philippe The unparalleled renown and prestige that Patek Philippe has acquired amongst connoisseurs is not due solely to the perfection of the watches and the resources of knowledge and skill contained in the workshops. This undisputed supremacy also stems from the consistency with which the company has applied its philosophy of excellence ever since it was founded in 1839. That spirit is embodied in ten values that have always represented the very essence of Patek Philippe and will continue to do so for generations to come. Discover more about Patek Philippe here.
The ever-useful chronograph has served everyone from the stylish watch enthusiast to the technically savvy pilot. Here, iW has compiled five of the most memorable chronographs from Baselworld 2016. Continue reading for more on timepieces from brands like Breitling, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer and Bulova.
Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was initially introduced in 1963 and was meant for professional racing drivers. At Baselworld, the watchmaker released a new model in 940L steel with a monobloc Cerachrom bezel, developed and patented by Rolex. This model is akin to the 1965 model thatwas fitted with a black Plexiglas bezel insert. The Cosmograph Daytona is equipped with calibre 4130, a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement entirely made in-house. Its architecture, a composite of Rolex technology, was completely re-engineered: the number of components for the chronograph function was reduced significantly, enhancing its reliability. Calibre 4130 is equipped with aself-winding module featuring a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
This groundbreaking watch wraps a chronograph around the top of your wrist. The Bulova CURV is fitted with what appears to be the first-ever curved chronograph movement, CURV features a tricked-out version of Bulova’s proprietary high-speed quartz caliber with enhanced accuracy and sweep-second hand. The watch slims and, yes, curves the typical sports watch profile so that it’s surprisingly sleek and form fitting when on the wrist. The twelve-piece CURV collection comes in a variety of styles, but my favorites are the steel and titanium-cased models that show off the unusual movement in a display that features the famed Bulova Accutron logo.
The original Omega CK2998 was released in 1959 and has since become one of the most sought-after vintage Speedmasters in the world. Today, Omega has used this classic model as inspiration for the new Speedmaster “CK2998” Limited Edition – an updated model for a new generation of fans. The Calibre 1861 was the iconic movement used in the very first Moonwatch. For this model, the watchmaker has retained the same movement to offer a true sense of authenticity. Due to its rarity, only 2,998 of these collectable watches have been produced. In a rare move, the original Speedmaster Seahorse medallion has been reintroduced and embossed on the screw-in caseback.
With its the historic TAG Heuer logo on the dial to remind one of the Monza’s revered place in the manufacture's historic 40-year-old collection, this updated cushion-cased classic is all black with black and white lacquered hour and minute hands, all like the 1970s original. But this new edition, the Heuer Monza Chronograph adds orange SuperLuminova indices and a grade 5 titanium (previously steel) case coated with titanium carbide. The diameter has also been increased (from 39mm on the original models to 42mm). The watch is equipped with a racing strap in full-grain black calfskin with top-stitching, which evokes the design of the three-spoke steering wheel on the racing cars of the time. Inside, the Caliber 17 automatic chronograph, with two counters at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock – evokes even more retro pleasure.
Its stature, its material, as well as its 24-hour indication combine to make the new Avenger Hurricane a truly standout model. Featuring a 50 mm XXL diameter, a sturdy construction equipped with lateral reinforcements and an all-black technical look enhanced by yellow accents and aviation-inspired stencil-type numerals, it is designed to share every challenge. This instrument for professionals is a compendium of boldness, innovation and performance. The Avenger Hurricane case is entirely made out of Breitlight®. This high-tech material exclusive to Breitling boasts a number of functional qualities. It is anti-magnetic, stable in respect to thermal variations and above all ultra-resistant to scratches, traction and corrosion. As a crowning touch, it is 3.3 times lighter than titanium and 5.8 times lighter than steel.
Vacheron Constantin explores its inner dandy with five new boutique-only 40mm watches dedicated to men’s fine fashion.
The Geneva brand’s ode to the art of savvy dressing joins its Métiers d’Art collection this week with Elégance Sartoriale, through which Vacheron Constantin reproduces authentic colors of traditional Savile Row fabrics. Five different dials appear in the collection: Prince of Wales Check, Herringbone, Windowpane, Pin Stripes and Tartan, each made by hand using traditional Swiss artisanal techniques.
The Prince of Wales Check plays on superimposed squares connected by vertical and horizontal stripes, enhanced by a raspberry red colored translucent enamel. A lavender-toned enamel and a zigzag motif accent the Herringbone motif. The geometry of the Windowpane pattern is underlined by warm grey enamel. The slim vertical Pin Stripes pattern shimmer beneath a soft linen color. Finally, the Tartan motif features familiar horizontal and vertical grooves coated with a cerulean blue.
On each dial a hand-guilloché decor utilizes one of these classic woven motifs in a crescent-shaped space and is coated with translucent Grand Feu enamel in various colors. The hours and minutes are displayed on a mother-of-pearl-edged subdial, which is a nod to shirt buttons. At the center of the time-only dial is a pattern created using a tapestry machine. Vacheron Constantin’s Caliber 1400, a mechanical manual-winding movement, powers each of the five models composing this new collection.
Each watch shares the same Champagne-colored tapestry gold dial at 3 o’clock, hour circle in mother-of-pearl, and black painted Roman numerals. Each white gold or pink gold timepiece is Hallmark of Geneva certified.
Here’s how Vacheron Constantin describes the remaining aspects of each dial in this new, natty collection.
Prince of Wales check pattern: Hand-guilloché “Prince of Wales check” pattern under raspberry red-colored translucent Grand Feu enamel.
Herringbone pattern: Hand-guilloché “herringbone” pattern under lavender-colored translucent Grand Feu enamel.
Windowpane pattern: Hand-guilloché “windowpane” pattern under warm grey translucent Grand Feu enamel
Pin Stripes pattern: Hand-guilloché “pin stripes” pattern under linen- colored translucent Grand Feu enamel
Tartan pattern: Hand-guilloché “tartan” pattern under royal blue translucent Grand Feu enamel
The with Métiers d’Art Elégance Sartoriale collection will appear in Vacheron Constantin’s boutiques later this year. Pricing information will be available soon.
Breitling’s U.S. headquarters are about an hour north of New York City in the quiet Connecticut town of Wilton. Until recently, this office was the nerve center for all the company’s North American operations. Breitling not long ago opened a Canadian office in Toronto to serve the brand north of the border.
From the outside the Breitling HQ betrays little of the activity inside. But with a large, newly built (metallic) wing, it’s clear that there’s room for quite a few workers inside.
Recently I toured Breitling’s headquarters to get an idea of the scope of the firm’s U.S. operation. Visitors can stop by to inquire about a repair or drop off a watch for maintenance, but are not generally offered a tour. But as a collector and iW contributor, I was able to see what happens behind the scenes at Breitling’s U.S. headquarters.
Here’s what I saw.
Familiar surroundings
I entered through the main doors of original building, which can only be opened by someone at the front desk. Once inside, a visitor is immersed in a world of aviation familiar to Breitling fans who may have visited one of the brand’s boutiques. Model planes hang from the ceiling. Nearby is Kevin Kelly’s well-known Bombing Betty statue, familiar to boutique visitors.
My tour began with a quick viewing of a large collection of new watches, all heavily secured behind armored doors. All the walls within the vault are covered with small yellow drawers containing just watch heads. Each section of the wall is dedicated to a specific collection of watches while subsections within them are for different metal types.
There are two reasons why there are only watch heads in these drawers. The first reason is largely due to the cost efficiencies achieved by shipping parts of the watch separately from Switzerland.
The other and more important reason is due to the overwhelming demand for very specifically configured pieces. With the release of the customization feature on Breitling.com, a user can now pick a watch and configure it with different dials, straps and even bracelets. This led to so many different incoming requests that Breitling now separates all the straps, bracelets and watchcases so it can better handle these specific requests.
At all times the vault is supervised by staff members who are solely responsible for all outgoing watches. Their responsibilities include making sure that the right heads are matched with the right strap options based on incoming orders. They attach SKU numbers so each individual part is correctly tracked.
Outgoing Watches
After the vault team assembles the watch components, the various boxes are then taken to another room for final assembly. Afterwards, each piece undergoes a strict series of testing before an electronic warranty card is issued to the watch. The testing itself will involve methods measuring water resistance and timekeeping accuracy. Final inspections also check aesthetic quality. If watches do not meet the quality standards, then they will not be sent out. Instead they will be recalibrated until they do meet the correct quality terms.
Once all tests are complete, Breitling issues an electronic warranty card that is virtually indestructible and holds very important information regarding the buyer’s watch. Personally, I find it refreshing that Breitling is embracing technology with this new warranty card system that features a unique R.F.I.D. chip inside each chronometer certificate. Not only does it allow Breitling to keep better track of inventory, but it also provides crucial details like time on warranty. It also allows dealers to suspend the warranty if the customer decides to trade in or sell the watch.
The final product will be transferred to the room across the hall to finally be sent to respective dealers and boutiques.
Incoming Watches
Incoming watches sent for maintenance or repairs are also inspected in the assembly room. The watches then are sent to the service department, where technicians and watchmaker thoroughly inspect every single customer watch, down to even the tiniest facet.
Using the most advanced technologies in magnification and photography, these technicians can accurately identify all problem areas of the watch while providing the customer a very detailed estimate that shows what exactly needs to be serviced.
In order for a watch to make it to the next phase, the customer will have to accept the written estimate that was generated by Breitling. Once the client does agree to conduct the service, the watch will then enter the new, flawlessly clean service facility.
The New Wing
The new building can only be accessed through the upper floor on each end of the building. One of the neatest features of this new facility is the crystal clear glass walls that lines an entire side of the building. Some lucky staff members, along with most watchmaking personnel, get an open view of a picturesque Connecticut forest surrounding the facility.
This is no accident. Just as in Switzerland, Breitling purposely positions it watchmakers with views of beautiful natural scenes. The idea is to allow natural light to enter the facility as well as to make the watchmakers feel more at ease and to reduce any stress. In this particular case, both watchmakers and other office staff members can enjoy the gorgeous view.
Entering the new building does come with its share of required checks. All watchmakers have a mandatory dress code that consists of a lab coat and specific shoes supplied by Breitling and that can only be worn inside the new facility. Since dust is bad for watch movements, Breitling does take every precaution is can to ensure no outside contaminants turn up inside its facility. A giant sticky pad on the floor just ahead of the entrance says it all.
Inside the ship
We then enter what Technical Instructor Robert Flood calls “the mother ship.” The nickname rings true: on the outside the new wing looks a bit like a spaceship has just landed. Inside it can feel like a scene from 2001: Space Odyssey.
Every last square inch of the room is spotless. Where cases are polished, an area that can become grimy quickly, is here kept immaculately clean. Traditionally, this part of the service process tends to be the messiest because polishing compounds create lots of dust when being removed by the high-speed polish wheels. Breitling combats this by using a high-powered industrial vacuum that constantly creates suction in the entire room and picks up all the particulates released by the wheels.
Once the cases have gone through their time with the polish wheels, they are then taken to another room where they will be dipped inside an ultrasonic bath that uses high frequency sound vibrations to shake off any residual compound left on the cases.
The Watchmaker Area
Although the list of upgrades with this new facility is practically endless, the most significant change is how the watchmakers are arranged. Comparatively speaking, before the addition of this new wing it was much more difficult to come up with a streamlined workflow of watch servicing due to the lack of available space. According to some long-time workers here, it was hard to not feel claustrophobic at times with the lack of space.
Today, all watchmakers are given ample space. Each watchmaker also gets a brand new bench packed with the latest technologies, automating even the most tedious tasks.
A good example of this technology is the movement feed that will give the watchmaker a new tray of movement parts with a push of a single button. Surrounding these new desks is a healthy arsenal of tools like a vacuum-powered screwdriver that requires less effort from the watchmaker and still tightens each screw with optimal pressure.
Since Breitling does continue to offer watches with different kinds of movements, it only made sense for the company to divide the watchmakers by teams to better service all the movements while maintaining good workflow. The largest team consisting of six to eight watchmakers and is dedicated to non-manufacture mechanical movements like the Caliber 13 and Caliber 17, both of which still power a large number of current customer watches and are based on ETA/Valjoux ebauches.
Next to the non-manufacture mechanical teams are the Superquartz specialists and electronic movement specialists. Though servicing mechanical watches was a big focus for this new facility, the Superquartz specialists also have more than enough space to practice their skills as the maintain and test the more advanced watches like the Emergency Mission and the new B55 Exospace.
Final Touches
Inside the “Mother-ship” its clear that emphasis has been placed on not only creating more working space for the watchmakers, but also on giving them every last resource necessary to make their jobs easier while ensuring their stringent quality standards are fully met
Before the watch even makes it to the testing phase, each part will undergo a series of baths and cleanings that ensures every last microscopic particle of dust and old lubricant is removed. Components and movements will also be cleaned with industrial machines that can clean hundreds of pieces at a time.
Last, but certainly not least, a new training center has been fitted inside the new facility. Inside this open glass box is a room full of watchmaker benches, each fitted with the same tools as those inside the “Mothership.”
This is where instructor Flood works with both internal watchmakers and outside watchmakers from authorized dealers to give them a deep education on different aspects of Breitling watches.
It’s no secret that after-sales service is among the most difficult aspects of the entire watch industry sales flow. There has been a steady increase of watchmaking students enrolling in watchmaking programs (though, not nearly enough according to industry observers). If any of those students choose to continue honing their craft within Breitling’s United States facility, I can safely say that person would be making a good career choice.
Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons Featured above: Winner of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Innovation and Public Prize awards, the Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons features three tourbillons rotating on a revolving plate. The manually wound movement beets at 21,600 vibrations per hour and contains six ball bearings as well as double serial barrels. The steel case measures 45 millimeters in diameter.
Glashütte Original PanoLunar Tourbillon The Glashütte Original PanoLunar Tourbillon, originally introduced just a year after the Pano line in 2013, features a uniquely arranged dial placing the filagreed flying tourbillon front and center. The model featured here is powered by a caliber 93-.2 automatic movement. Additional functions include off-center hour and minutes, small seconds, moon phase and panorama date. The Glashütte Original PanoLunar Tourbillon is presented in a red gold case measuring 40 millimeters in diameter.
Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon Introduced just this year, the Glashütte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon features a world timer featuring any two of 37 world time zones. Home time is presented at 6 o’clock on a 240hour subdial with day and night indication, while destination time is showcased on the main dial. The timepiece is powered by a Caliber 89-01 manually wound movement housed in a 48 millimeter platinum case with exhibition caseback.
Bronze makes a noteworthy entrance into the Oris collection with this commemorative model that pays tribute to Carl Brashear, the U.S. Navy’s first African-American master diver. Brashear joined the Navy in 1948 as a 17-year-old, and, despite facing discrimination, graduated from the Navy’s diving program in 1954. In 1966, he lost the lower part of his left leg in an accident during a mission to salvage a hydrogen bomb. After rehabilitation, he became the U.S. Navy’s first amputee diver in 1968, and then qualified as a Master Diver in 1970, the first African American to do so. His story was the subject of the film, Men of Honor starring Cuba Gooding Jr.
Historically only used as a case material by a few watchmakers, bronze is notably distinguished by its oxidation, which leaves a unique patina on each piece. Initially bright and shiny, the case and the unidirectional rotating bezel gradually darken over time, according to its owner’s habits, thereby making each timepiece in the Oris Carl Brashear Limited Edition truly unique. Clearly referencing the history of deep-sea diving, this eminently legible and functional model – a nod to the deep-sea diving helmets from the 1950s – is ideal for underwater exploration, since the 2,000-piece limited edition is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
About Oris In 1904 at Hölstein Paul Cattin and Georges Christian established the Oris watch factory. Both come from the watch making capital Le Locle in the Swiss Jurassic region. Starting with just 24 workmen, they took over the recently closed down watch firm Lohner & Co. Oris' namesake is the name of a brook and a valley close to Hölstein in the north-western part of Switzerland.
