The limited edition of 99 pieces, Rado releases the True Thinline Skeleton releases a watch dedicated to their Swiss heritage. The watch is engineered from polished black high-tech ceramic and has a slim silhouette measuring seven millimeters.
Under a black dial with stylized semicircle cutouts, the ultra-slim decorated Swiss movement powering the True Thinline Skeleton takes center stage. The black movement is decorated with 21 crimson jewels. The watch is super lightweight but very structured.
About Rado
In 1917 in the town of Lengnau, Switzerland, brothers Fitz, Ernst and Werner Schlup opened the Schlup & Co. clockwork factory. 40 years later, it became Rado Uhren AG and the first watch collection was launched under this name. Inventors and masters of creativity adapt technologies from other fields for watchmaking purposes. “If we can imagine it, we can make it, and if we can make it, we will.”
The L.U.C Collection is a tribute to watchmaker Louis-Ulysse Chopard. The watchmaker already added the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono to the collection earlier this year, and the L.U.C XPS 1860 is the newest addition.
The watch pays tribute to the first L.U.C timepiece, the L.U.C 1860, which debuted 20 years ago. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture, which produces the line completely in-house.
There are two watches in the collection, both are powered by the Calibre 96.01-L, which is the first in-house movement created by the manufacture. The dial has a hand-guilloché motif within the center and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock.
The watch is a 250-piece limited edition.
About Chopard It all began in 1860 in the small village of Sonvilier, Switzerland. Here Louis-Ulysse Chopard, a talented young craftsman, established his workshop. By virtue of their precision and reliability, his watches quickly gained a solid reputation among enthusiasts and found buyers as far afield as Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia.In 1921, the founder’s son, Paul Louis Chopard, opened a branch in La Chaux-de-Fonds and then relocated the company headquarters there. In 1937, he moved the firm to Geneva, the capital of Haute Horlogerie, or Fine Watchmaking, thereby bringing it closer to its cosmopolitan clientele. In 1943, Paul André Chopard, grandson of Louis-Ulysse, took the helm. Discover more about Chopard here.
During the Baselworld fair, the iW team sat down with Yann Gamard, CEO of Glashütte Original to explore the much-awaited releases for the year including the new manufactory Calibre 36. This new movement embraces the German roots of Glashütte Original and lays the groundwork for future developments beyond this classic time only function. The robust design was achieved with ultimate longevity in mind by taking into account the input from all aspects of the manufacture from watchmakers and engineers to the customer service department. Gamard explains the thought process behind the introduction, “The key to our watch design is that it is very complicated on the inside but very simple on the outside.” Look at this video for additional insight from Gamard.
Less is More
Through the sapphire case back one can view the beauty of the automatic movement. The three quarter plate finished with Glashütte stripes, a trait of German watchmaking, peeks through the bi-directional spinning rotor with a 21 carat oscillating weigh. On the skeletonized rotor there are back-to-back G’s representing the company’s philosophy of always looking forward while respecting their past and calibre 36 is certainly representative of this notion.
Calibre 36 is encased in the timeless aesthetics of the Senator Excellence 36 collection with 40mm case available in either stainless steel or 18 karat red gold with a domed sapphire crystal. The minimalistic dial design displays the hours, minutes and seconds with Roman numerals laser cut and galvanized on the dial along with a railroad minute ring. A second black dial option is available in stainless steel versions and is reminiscent of the Senator Observer collection with Arabic numerals and strong Super-LumiNova giving a sporty appearance. Furthermore, the Senator Excellence 36 collection is presented with paperwork detailing the outcome of in-house testing is six positions. The certificate provides data such as amplitude and rate.
The 18 karat red gold model retails for $17,700 and $9,700 in stainless steel.
The Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon is a beautiful nautically themed design, which is then fused with breakthrough technology. On the dial, hand-crafted wood marquetry evokes a ship’s deck, while the time display is original and creative: a boom pulled by super-strong nanowires indicates theminutes, while the hours are displayed on two concentric disks.
Tim Mosso reviews the watch in Basel.
A boom replaces the minutes-hand – the horizontal wire pulls the boom across an arc. The boom jumps back once an hour, its speed regulatedby a purpose-designed retrograde mechanism. The nanowire is made ofpolyethylene Dyneema® Fiber, a material that is used in ship’s rigging and is manytimes stronger than steel.
The Manufacture’s Caliber UN-630, a 60-second flying tourbillon with manual-winding movement, contains 469 components and oscillates at a frequency of 3 Hz. Despite the considerable power requirements of the boom display, the movement offers optimal precision and a generous power reserve of over 48 hours. A first barrel is devoted to the time-telling mechanism; a second barrel supplies power to the complication. Border detailing and ornamental wires that adorn the top of the dial offer further subtle references to nautical design.
The watch is available as a limited edition of 18 white gold pieces.
This new collection from Shinola debuted this past month at Baselworld in Switzerland.
The new watch platform is a refined collection that adds a level of sophistication to Shinola’s popular Runwell and Birdy styles while maintaining the brand’s signature classic details.The Canfield will launch beginning April 1 with 14 variations of case materials, dial colors, and strap materials of leather and alligator. Each piece is water resistant to 5 ATM and, like all Shinola watches, features a scratch resistant sapphire crystal.
The watch is priced at $1,050.
About Shinola Why not accept that manufacturing is gone from this country? Why not let the rust and weeds finish what they started? Why not just embrace the era of disposability? And why didn't we buy a warmer coat before we moved here? Through three Detroit winters, we’ve asked ourselves these questions. And worked not to find our answer, but to build it. Because we don't think American manufacturing ever failed for being too good. Our worst didn't come when we were at our best. It happened when we thought good was good enough. Discover more about Shinola here.
A Rolex by any other name is often still a Rolex. If you know the code. We offer insight to the many nicknames collectors give to pieces from their favorite Swiss watch company.
When it comes to watches, one often hears technical terms and jargon that to any non-collector may seem crazy. But to those whose veins run rich with “watch fever,” there are many of these terms, and all represent a never-ending sea of discovery and excitement.
Among the most enthralling and intense of the watch collecting sub-cultures is the vast (and ever-expanding) world of vintage Rolex. Although I could not even begin to touch on every facet of Rolex nomenclature and collector-centric terms within this one article, I would like to just provide an introduction to the vintage Rolex universe by focusing on some of the more commonly heard nicknames of pieces from years past. With names like Root Beer, Stella, Steve McQueen, and most recently the Batman, it is hard to resist the temptation to learn more.
GMT Flavors
The Rolex GMT Master is one of the most recognizable Rolex models. In one form or another, this piece has been in continuous production for decades and can still be bought brand new from your local authorized dealer. Although many cosmetic and mechanical changes have been made to this model over the years, the durability and effortless dual time capabilities have not been lost.
The GMT Master has seen many different bezel color palettes (which are the source of many nicknames), different bracelet configurations, and an array of metals, both precious and standard. The first GMT Master that comes to mind to most people is the current model, reference 116710.
This model comes equipped with a black ceramic bezel, black dial, and the nearly perfect Oyster (three-link) bracelet that we have all come to know and love. Although this piece is more advanced than its ancestors, the idea remains the same.
Certain examples to note include the Pepsi GMT, reference 1675, with its colorful blue and red bezel; and the Coke GMT with black and red coloring. Both of these examples are nothing short of awesome. The Root Beer GMT is different, with its introduction of a new color palette along with a whole new dial color as well. Take note of the two-tone Jubilee bracelet, goldish brown dual-colored bezel and matching dial. With its funky color palette, this is definitely a period piece that screams old-school cool. Examples like this can be found with or without the quickset date feature, in two-tone (yellow gold and steel) or solid yellow gold, and with the Jubilee or the sportier Oyster bracelet.
The newest addition to the Rolex GMT family, with a sporty black and blue ceramic bezel, also has its own nickname: the Batman. More than a year after its debut, this piece still comes with a waitlist when being bought new.
Patrons
It is no surprise that the most popular fine Swiss watch manufacturer in the world has seen its share of important patrons. That being said, not all of these clients have had royal blood. The original king of cool himself was an avid fan of the crown. Originally introduced in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II, like the Rolex GMT Master, features a dual-time indication. The main difference, however, is that the Explorer II has a fixed steel bezel.
When looking at this piece, perhaps the first thing one will notice is the bright orange GMT hand. This choice of color was originally intended for use by cave divers, or spelunkers, who after long periods of spending time in darkness would lose sense of whether it was a.m. or p.m. This fixed bezel system allows one to easily determine whether it is 5 a.m. or 5 p.m. simply based on what hemisphere of the dial the orange hand points to.
Although this model was not hugely successful when originally released, it was launched into the horological history books and given a nickname when Steve McQueen was spotted wearing one on numerous occasions.
Day Date
In 1956 Rolex introduced one of the most iconic, and in my opinion, most beautiful watches ever made. The Rolex Day Date was the first wristwatch to feature a date indication along with the day of the week fully spelled out. Furthermore, it was fitted with the legendary waterproof oyster case and a special bracelet unique to this model. Available exclusively in precious metals, the Rolex Day Date quickly became one of the most exclusive timepieces ever produced.
The nickname President comes from the countless U.S. presidents, dignitaries, and world leaders who were often photographed wearing this unique bracelet with their Rolex Day Date over the decades. Available in over twenty languages, the Day Date transcends boundaries while commanding a strong presence no matter where it goes.
The first Rolex Day Date models had conservative dial options, ranging from champagne to black. It was not until the early 1970s that Rolex released a collection of rather audacious dial colors for the Middle Eastern market. These dials, which are composed of enamel, are unique as no two examples are exactly identical; each dial was painted by hand. Given the wild nature of these models, Rolex soon began to take back and destroy these dials, making them exceedingly rare today.
The wide array of colors Rolex produced for these watches is nothing short of mind boggling. From white gold cases with peachy-pink dials, to yellow gold with stark red “oxblood” or even turquoise coloring, these beautifully colored masterpieces were nick named “Stella dials.”
Although the exact history of this name is not known for sure, it is commonly thought that the shiny dials got their name from the Latin word “stella,” which means star.
Everyone, collector or not, is familiar with the Rolex name. Thanks to the brilliant marketing and product placement of these pieces throughout the years, the legends surrounding the crown, and those who have one on their wrist, it has only become stronger as the years have come and gone. It is commonly thought that those who wear a Rolex have achieved something great, whether it’s a graduation, the birth of a child, or a big promotion.
As the most widely known and appreciated sign of “success,” these pieces have long adored the wrists of history’s most famous characters.
Even as the demand for yesterday’smasterpieces continues to grow, I look forward to seeing what tomorrow’s classics from Rolex will be.
Celebrating 85 years of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre went all out for their biggest icon's birthday. The watchmaker created new models in their Atelier Reverso collection.
The models premiered at this year's SIHH in Switzerland and were a hit with audiences at the show. Inspired by Art Deco design, Jaeger- LeCoultre created these models on their Duo and Duetto versions. Various strap and dial colors are offered with diamond accents or without.
About Jaeger-LeCoultre It was an invention that led to the first Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop. Since 1833, the Manufacture has not only fostered this heritage of invention, creativity and technical skill together under one roof but also constantly set out in search of innovation. The first representative of the LeCoultre family in Switzerland, Pierre LeCoultre (ca. 1530 – ca. 1600) fled his village of Lisy-sur-Ourcq near Paris to escape the religious persecutions in France. In the Joux Valley, he put the virgin lands to good use, exploited woodland resources and devoted the later years of his life to the teaching of religion and general culture. In 1612 his son was one of the founders of the village of Le Sentier, where Jaeger-LeCoultre has thrived since 1833.Discover more about Jaeger LeCoultre here.
At iW, I have the opportunity to see and wear a terrific selection of the newest timepieces. The trying-on part of my job is admittedly the easiest regular chore here. My ability to preview so many upcoming timepiece collections is among the most enjoyable aspects of working on the staff of a timepiece publication and website.
But when it comes time to choose favorites among the many beautiful watches that are for a few minutes either strapped or clicked into place on my wrist, the job gets a bit tougher. I’m often torn between the latest piece I’ve worn and the anticipation of the next beautifully decorated, mechanically interesting instrument that betrays hundreds of years of timepiece history.
Still, wrist-memories can be strong, and during all the strapping and unstrapping at the recent Baselworld, one of my favorite recollections is how the newest NOMOS Tetra Neomatik Tiefblau felt and looked on my wrist.
You must know the Tetra. This latest example of the German brand’s square watch collection has this year been enriched with DUW 3001, the NOMOS caliber that I had the opportunity to watch being produced last fall while visiting NOMOS in Glashütte. Recall that this caliber measures only 3.2 millimeters in height, making it among the thinnest of its type.
The square watch, long a bestseller at NOMOS, this past Baselworld joined the NOMOS neomatik (with lower-case n) automatic series, which the watchmaking company so successfully debuted last year. In case you missed it, the neomatik quickly sold-out its first edition and drew added attention to this already fast-growing watchmaking company.
NOMOS this year increased the Tetra’s diameter to a still-unusually small 33mm and has slightly tweaked the dial. Its running seconds subdial is larger and round, not square as in some previous models. This, combined with the new new colorful minute index around the dial, makes for a slightly more masculine look. And here the neomatik logo is gold rather than neon-colored as on the 2015 neomatik debut. Secured under my cuff with a supple Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap and NOMOS winged clasp, this watch felt perfectly at home on my wrist.
The watch arrives in one of two versions: One with cyan blue accents on a white silver-plated dial; the other, the Tiefblau, has green details on a deep blue dial. While I prefer the latter color, I’d gladly wear either of these Baselworld 2016 debuts on my wrist today. Given the NOMOS credo to keep its timepieces moderately priced (both are available for less than $4,000), this dream could one day soon become reality.
Nancy Olson Managing Editor
I must first say that I am not a flashy person. My watch tastes run to minimalist designs, understated enamel dials and maybe a date window if I’m feeling rambunctious. I prefer straps to bracelets, and black leather is my preference—or maybe brown for the weekend. Monastic? Hardly. Classic? I’m all over it.
But I’m also the first to appreciate a great design, even if it wouldn’t quite fit into that sea of sameness that I lovingly refer to as my watch collection.
So as much as I like to try on a wide variety of great watches (one of the best perks of this job), today I’m trying on a new personality—one that can wear a high-jewelry watch with all the aplomb it deserves. I will wear it and it will not wear me. And the watch I’m choosing for my new wrist (new wrists go along with new personalities) is the Bulgari Serpenti Incantati Skeleton Tourbillon.
Why? First of all I love everything that Bulgari represents, from its fascinating history to its maturation as a watchmaker. Second, as a self-described classicist, the Serpenti collection feeds my desire for something with provenance and long-lasting appeal, even though this watch is a new iteration. Third, I love the unexpected spin of a skeletonized tourbillon movement—a first within the Serpenti line. Last, and maybe most importantly, I am bowled over by the flawless re-design of the snake motif.
Redesigning a classic is always a risky endeavor. Remember New Coke? But here, at the hands of Bulgari’s masterful designers, the Serpenti retains all the emotional appeal of the original, while at the same time reminding us that the mythological snake can successfully take on many forms. Shown here, the diamond-set snake wraps around the 41mm watchcase rather than the wrist, framing a skeleton-worked manufacture tourbillon caliber visible on the dial side. The mainplate and bridges are crafted in gold, and the steel parts are complemented by circular graining and snailing. The gold bracelet is set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Repeat: I will wear this watch and it will not wear me.
Nola Martin Swiss Managing Editor
I have a love for all things French. From the language and chic fashions to the delectable food and, let's be honest, delicious wine. Therefore, it is not surprising that I have chosen the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Email Grand Feu as the watch I would wear from Baselworld.
On to more of my French loves, I have always been drawn to the classical Parisian Haussmann buildings of the 19th century especially when the interior is well appointed with modern elements. The mezzanine rooms with gorgeous parquet floors and high ceilings elaborately decorated with moldings are to die for and this relates to another reason why I love the Slim d’Hermès Email Grand Feu. While the movement, dial, and case express the classic traditions of horology, similar to the Haussmann style, in contrast, the typography on the dial brings a contemporary and playful vibe to the timepiece. For me, this watch creates a timeless style and in my opinion is an ideal blend of tradition and modernity. Additionally, it fits like a perfectly tailored piece of clothing. The slim case made of 18k pink gold measures 39.5 mm and has well-angled lugs to hug the wrist.
An abundant amount of talent is required to create this elegantly understated dial. The design process for the French maison takes place in Paris and is greatly influenced by the historic roots of the brand. Creative Director of La Montre Hermès, Philippe Delhotal conceived the minimalistic design of the Slim d’Hermès collection while the stylized typography to mark the time was designed by French artist Philippe Apeloig. The eye-catching dial of the Email Grand Feu model exemplifies the artist collaboration creating light and airy hour markers as well as the in-house expertise of Hermés artisans through the Grand Feu enameled dial. Each dial takes eight hours to make and requires five to six layers of enamel and firing to create the rich color.
Beyond the outer beauty of the dial, is the slim movement is to be admired as well. The La Montres Hermés SA office is based in Biel, Switzerland and Hermés owns 25% of Manufacture Vaucher Fleurier, a movement manufacture. As a result, automatic movement, H1950, featuring a micro-rotor, hand-chamfered bridges, and a 42-hour power reserve, powers this time only watch. Pairing the dial together with the balanced proportions of the case and finished with a Hermés Havana alligator strap truly strikes the perfect balance. I would be lucky to add one of the 100-piece limited edition to my collection.
Tim Mosso Editorial Director
At Baselworld 2016, Dresden-based independent Lang & Heyne won my heart – and hypothetical wrist – with its stunning Johann Champlevé.
While the Johann model itself is not a 2016 debut, the champlevé variant is. As a manufacture in the purest sense, Lang & Heyne executes the vivid enamel and the underlying engraved silver dial entirely within its workshops. All engraving of the silver blank is conducted freehand, and the translucent blue enamel ensures that each element of the engraved silver remains visible on the finished product.
Lang & Heyne prides itself on the sheer scope of its engineering, artisanal, and watchmaking capabilities. The Johann Champlevé incorporates hands, wheels, bridges, plates, and screws fabricated in-house to complement the show-stopping engraved enamel dial. Masonic symbolism, rich color, and subtle Mobius strips are integrated into the enamel span, and a robust 43.5mm case offers a broad frame for Lang & Heyne’s opus. For additional depth, the seconds sub-dial is a separate silver plate that is engraved, enameled, and installed within an aperture at six o’clock.
Proprietor, founder, and AHCI inductee Marco Lang intended the Baselworld display watch as a proof-of-concept rather than a definitive model to be duplicated. The 45 year-old Lang is a youthful fellow by AHCI standards, and he retains the accommodating stance toward customization that often wanes as master watchmakers age. According to Lang, at least 50% of his 2016 output of 30-40 watches will consist of custom orders. Given this type of license, my ideal Johann Champlevé would swap rose gold for white, and I wouldn’t hesitate to request the Mammoth-ivory plate and bridge option (hint: it’s exactly what it sounds like) to add exotic flair to the L&H Caliber 1 movement. Keep in mind that this caliber already boasts a diamond cap stone atop the balance…
Among watch collectors, the term “Exit Watch” has evolved from its literal origin as the “final installment” of a complete collection to something approaching an absolute, a superlative. Lang & Heyne ranks among the few manufactures that can justly describe each product of its workshops as an “Exit Watch.” With the Johann Champlevé, I’ve found my bow-out.
Although the latest film iteration of the Batman saga didn’t do so well with critics, this watch from Romain Jerome celebrates the masked crusader. Called the Batman-DNA Gotham City, the watch is true to the original model and is enhanced with the facetted bezel in black PVD-coated steel, reminiscent of the Batmobile. At night, Gotham City comes alive thanks to strong blue Superluminova that lights up the hand-applied Batman applique and showcases the city’s different personalities. The engraving is actually an engraved 3D map of Gotham City. The watch is a limited edition of 75 pieces.
The watch is priced at $19,500.
About Romain Jerome Founded in 2004 in Geneva, Switzerland, RJ-Romain Jerome has quickly become renowned for its unique concept, “DNA of famous legends”. RJ-Romain Jerome allows its customers to own a part of history by creating highly emotional timepieces and accessories inspired by and incorporating the DNA of a contemporary legend. RJ’s watches are Swiss made and combine craftsmanship and know-how with outstanding technological expertise. They embody the values of their time: a sense of distinctiveness, a need for speed and a spectacular yet discreetly sophisticated aura of virility. Discover more about Romain Jerome here.
NOMOS Glashütte, a modern and independent German watchmaker, continues to grow their collections driven by the automatic and ultra-thin Movement DUW 3001 with the Tetra Neomatik. The number one square timepiece for NOMOS is now equipped with their in-house movement featuring a proprietary escapement named the NOMOS Swing System.
GERMAN INNOVATION DUW stands for NOMOS Glashütte Deutsche Uhrenwerke, encompassing the range of watchmaking expertise found at NOMOS. The masterminds at NOMOS created their first self-winding calibre for NOMOS, DUW 3001, continuing the extraordinary German engineering and precision started in 1990. The three year project resulted in innovations and an optimized gear train by adjusting the order, angle and number of teeth in DUW 3001 and increasing the effectiveness by as much as 94 percent. While remaining extremely thin at 3.2 millimeters, this movement achieves chronometer-standards and is complete with the NOMOS swing system including a tempered blue balance spring that was introduced last year and a classic German three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing. When fully wound, the movement has a 42 hour power reserve and uses a bi-directional winding rotor to assist in keeping the balance spring tightly coiled. The DUW 3001 has also received a small update this year with the addition of the new DUW regulatory system, allowing the length of the balance spring to be adjusted and further ensure precision.
TETRA NEOMATIK The Tetra neomatik arrives in a stylish square case with all sides measuring 33 millimeters, increased by 4.5 millimeters and it sits 7.2 millimeters off the wrist, a 0.9 millimeter increase from its manually-wound counterpart in the Tetra collection. The refreshed dial upholds the minimalistic style NOMOS Glashütte is known for, and will be adorned with the ‘neomatik’ logo in gold, rather than colored, to represent the first edition. Offered in two versions, one is pure and clean with a galvanized white dial having cyan blue accents with and a playful red hand for the small seconds. While the Tetra neomatik tiefblau has a deep blue lacquered dial with green accents and a small seconds with a neon orange hand both giving the watch a splash of character. Both arrive on Horween Cordovan black straps and are good reminders that it is hip to be square.
The Tetra neomatik will retail for $3,860 with a white dial and $3,980 for the tiefblau model.
Coupled with its RM 011 automatic flyback chronograph caliber, Richard Mille presents the latest incarnation of its TPT® quartz case dressed in red.
Wrapped in striped white casing, this tourbillon caliber demonstrates the full extent of the properties characterizing this composite material, resilience to high temperatures, transparency to electromagnetic waves and resistance to impact forces.
This grade 5 titanium movement has a power reserve of 55 hours powered by a double barrel system wound by a variable-geometry rotor. Featuring an oversized date at 12 o’clock, a month display at 4 o’clock and a flyback chronograph with a countdown function, this iconic Richard Mille timepiece reveals a fresh new look
The RM 011 Red TPT® Quartz is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at $160,000.
About Richard Mille Since its establishment in 2001, the Richard Mille brand has been responsible for a number of world premier innovations in the application, use and design of new technological materials that have extended the field of horological knowledge and invention. Utilizing materials more commonly found in the world of high-tech aeronautics and racing car industries such as carbon nanofiber ALUSIC and Aluminum-Lithium, Richard Mille watches are known for achieving advanced chronometric results and furthering horology in the 21st century. Discover more about Richard Mille.
Debuted at SIHH 2016, Parmigiani’s Kalpa Tourbillon Cyclone features the Caliber PF500.
The tourbillon, visible at the bottom of the dial, does two complete rotations every minute, where most tourbillons on the market complete one.
The actual dial is made from mother-of-pearl and is colored blue. The fragments darken the farther from the center of the watch and create a mosaic pattern depicting the shape of a cyclone. The watch is placed on a blue storm Hermès alligator strap. The platinum Tonneau-shaped case is set with 215 diamonds, which total 11.88 carats. Turning the watch over, the wearer can view the movement through a sapphire-caseback.
The movement’s functions include hours, minutes, one week power reserve indication and of course, the 30-second tourbillon.
About Parmigiani Fleurier
The Parmigiani Fleurier story, since its beginnings in 1996, has been built on a powerful conviction: restoring the value of Swiss watchmaking art as heritage, by making it part of an ongoing tradition of manufacturing expertise. One man, Michel Parmigiani, would be the founder, and the Sandoz Family Foundation the principal, and the symbolic town of Fleurier the seat of the brand, the cradle of traditions. heir shared vision for upholding the highest quality Swiss expertise drives them to offer the best. Discover more about Parmigiani Fleurier here.
Govberg Jewelers is back for iW’s weekly Pre-Owned Spotlight series. This week we’re taking a look at 7 complicated chronographs in all price points. Check out the most recent timepieces from the Leading Watch Retailer’s ever-rotating complete inventory!
Stop by next Saturday for the latest in pre-owned shopping. For direct assistance with any of the watches listed, or if you’re looking for something else, call their Concierge department directly at: 888-885-7552.
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph is a large, 45.5mm watch perfect for diving deep. This watch can dive with you to 600m, that’s almost 2,000 feet! The chronograph is accompanied by the date window at 6 o’clock, and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock. Although this watch does have a deep water resistance, the chronograph should not be run under water. The Planet Ocean is powered by the Omega Co-Axial caliber 9300, visible through the caseback. Govberg Price: $5,350.
Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Grande Date 03.2160.4047/21.M216
The El Primero Chronomaster features a partially skeletonized dial in addition to the skeletonized rotor visible through the caseback. The watch features a “big date” aperture at 2 o’clock just above the 30 minute register of the chronograph. The small seconds hand at 9 o’clock is read using one of the three arms. Found at 6 o’clock to add a splash of color to the black dial is a moonphase. Govberg Price: $6,850.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Squadra World Chronograph Limited Edition Q702T670
The Reverso Squadra World Chronograph is limited to 1500 pieces. The model took the Reverso back to the original, sporty, feel. There is a rubberized deployment bracelet that complements the black dials. The world time dial shows off 24 simultaneous cities across the globe so you'll always know the time and time of day. On the other side of the dial is the chronograph function with a large date window. This watch features a depth rating of 5atm rather than the standard 3atm found in other Reverso models. Govberg Price: $11,750.
Rolex Yachtmaster II 116689
The Yachtmaster II was originally designed for those on the sea but is diverse in style where it can be worn both on water and land. The chronograph features a regatta function, which is a programmable countdown with a mechanical memory. This provides precise synchronization needed for the start of yacht races. This model features a white gold case and platinum bezel. Govberg Price: $26,500.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Chronograph 49020/000W-9656
This complicated Overseas Perpetual Chronograph is limited to just 50 pieces. Not only do each of the subdials register the chronograph, they also serve as a perpetual calendar. The chronograph function is read using the yellow hands versus the gray. In the subdial at 6 o’clock you’ll find the moonphase. The caliber 1136 QP is protected by an iron cage to resist magnetic interference. Govberg Price: $47,500.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970ER-012
The manually wound Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970ER features a 36mm 18k pink gold case. The watch has an exhibition caseback but comes with a solid, engravable caseback that can be easily switched. The silver dial is complemented with a moonphase paired with the date found at 6 o’clock. The watch is completed with a chronograph and easy to read perpetual calendar. Govberg Price: $99,500.
IWC Portuguese Grande Complication Limited Edition IW3774-02
The Portuguese Grand Complication is a real time stopper. The watch features not only a perpetual calendar and chronograph, but it includes the decade and century paired with a perpetual moonphase. An added feature is activated by the pusher at 9 o’clock, the minute repeater. A minute repeater audibly chimes the house and minutes in different tones so you don’t need to look at the watch for the time. The complicated watch is limited to only 100 pieces and is made in 18k rose gold. Govberg Price: $109,500.
The Tambour Blue Chronograph from Louis Vuitton features a rich design and incorporates a deep blue color that complements the black V on the dial. The watch has contrasting brushed and polished metal finishes as well.
Inside the watch is a Swiss-made ETA 2894.2 movement that has a 42-hour power reserve. All of this is placed on a black alligator and calf bi-material strap with blue seams.
On the dial, the date is viewed at between 4 and 5 o’clock with the chronograph on the right side of the dial. The watch is waterproof up to 100 meters and has sapphire glass with reflection proof coating.
The watch is priced at $7,700 and will launch mid-end of April.
About Louis Vuitton A dream. An icon. A masterpiece. Each Louis Vuitton product is the embodiment of uncompromising quality and exceptional craftsmanship. Fromt he famous monogram pattern to the astonishing Louis Vuitton diamond cut, the Maison enchants the world with its unique creations since 1854. Discover more about Louis Vuitton here.
When the America’s Cup defending champions ORACLE TEAM USA races in the Louis Vuitton America’s Cup World Series racing on May 7 -8 in New York, the sailors on board the high-tech catamaran will very likely be timing many of their moves with one of Bremont’s new Regatta watches. The British watch brand is Official Timing Partner of the America’s Cup and of the ORACLE TEAM USA, and as Bremont Co-founder Giles English tells iW in the video below the team’s input was helpful as Bremont designed its first regatta watches, often called yacht timers, which debuted during Baselworld 2016.
As English notes, Bremont is the first official British timing partner to The America’s Cup since 1851 and with the new Regatta models is very likely the first British brand to debut a wristwatch with this very specific timing function.
In New York next month six America’s Cup competing teams, (ORACLE TEAM USA, Emirates Team New Zealand, Land Rover BAR for Great Britain, Artemis Racing for Sweden, SoftBank Team Japan, and Groupama Team France) will race in New York Harbor for points that count towards the final competition for the 35th America’s Cup in Bermuda in 2017. Spectators will watch as all six teams will race against one another at the same time, in a fleet racing format. Racing will take place from 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. each day. A New York champion will be crowned on Sunday, May 8, after the final race.
Inspired by co-founder and CEO of Hautlence Sandro Reginelli’s childhood, the Labyrinth does not tell time but offers a fun game for the wearer.
The model debuted at Baselworld this past month. Moving the crown activates a mechanical lift, which feeds the ballonto the board using a camshaft system visible through the transparent back. The maze-like dial is carved in solid gold with a forged platinum ball. This model is a part of the Playground collection, which includes mechanical games to celebrate childhood. The collection will expand in the future.
The watch is available with a solid 5N gold (below) or white gold dial.
The watch is priced at $12,600
About Hautlence
“The Hautlence adventure is remarkable through its creativity and the products presented convey a new vision whilst respecting watchmaking tradition,” Hautlence Chairman Georges-Henri Meylan said. “We aim to support the development of Hautlence, that will celebrate its 10th anniversary in 2014, with all the resources that the MELB family holding group can bring. The strong, easily identifiable product design makes this brand a rising star in 21st century creative watchmaking.” Discover more about Hautlence here.
iW recently sat down with Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot to discuss the beginning of the All Black concept which, this year, reaches its tenth anniversary. Bold and monochromatic, the All Black concept disrupted the industry, establishing a new trend that spread throughout the luxury industry.
This disruption came as no surprise. Since 1980, Hublot has pushed boundaries in the watch world by creating innovative watch collections based on blending new materials or, what they call, the Art of Fusion.
The All Black concept occurred to Biver upon further inspection of what art means in the watchmaking community.
“The watchmaking art is an invisible art because usually you have a dial and a case back, how do you see the art?” Biver said. “You cannot see it. You can only see the art if you open the case back.”
With its Pioneer Perpetual Calendar, H. Moser & Cie reinterprets the perpetual calendar complication. This is something the watchmaker is doing a lot of, take for example their Perpetual Calendar Concept.
This latest iteration features an ardoise fumé dial. To emphasize the practical aspect of this model, its leaf-shaped hands are filled with Superluminova® and complemented by luminescent markers indicating the hours on the flange. The watch is placed on a black alligator leather strap or a rubber strap.
This modular case is made from 5N red gold, featuring black DLC-finished titanium components continuing the modern interpretation in the exceptional non-geometric shapes adorning the sides of H. Moser & Cie models.
“With the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar, we wanted to create a piece that is perfect for everyday wear, on land or in water, with its complex mechanism protected in a lightweight, robust and watertight case,” CEO Edouard Meylan said.
About H. Moser & Cie What makes an H. Moser & Cie. timepiece extraordinary and rare is a combination of three things. First, H. Moser & Cie. is an independent, Swiss, family-run business which believes in challenging the norm. This is nothing new as H. Moser & Cie. has a long history of entrepreneurial spirit. Second, all of its movements are manufactured in-house. Every H. Moser & Cie. builds is finished by hand, hence why they make very few watches. Third, they make ingenious products. Their watches house unique features and their complications are simple and functional. These combined, H. Moser & Cie. timepieces are truly exceptional and very rare. Discover more about H. Moser & Cie.
This vintage collection from Graham only goes back 15 years but a lot has happened since 2001. The watchmaker keeps the vintage spirit alive with the new four-piece collection of Chronfighters. With the signature trigger on the left-hand side of the case, these Swiss made timepieces are a masculine choice in 2016.
The G1747 automatic chronograph movement powers the watch, which is visible through the case back. It features an Incabloc shock absorber and a power reserve of 48 hours. The 44-millimeter case presents a dynamic cockpit of Swiss precision timekeeping. The chronograph functionality consists of two easily legible counters, one to track seconds and the other to count 30-minute periods.
The watch is available in four models, each priced at $4,950.
About Graham Graham is an unrepentantly English name for an exquisitely English watch. If you're interested in the minutiae of watch making, Graham was the surname of George Graham, born in 1673, the master watchmaker who lived in Fleet Street in London. Discover more about Graham here.
The SKULL watch from Fiona Krüger is a limited edition of 12 pieces. Each piece is hand-made in Switzerland and powered by a Swiss mechanical movement with a 5-day power reserve. Encased in a hand-polished stainless steel skull-shaped case the watch is complimented by a hand-made premium calf-leather wristband.
The watch is inspired by the 17th century skull watch of Mary Queen of Scots, the Mexican celebration of Dia de Los Muertos and beautifully decorated skeleton movements found in today’s luxury watches.
About Fiona Krüger Fiona Krüger Timepieces is a new Independent watch Design and Production business, differentiated by an artistic, creative approach to emotive haute horlogerie through the integration of Art with “Swiss Made” craftsmanship and technology. Discover more about Fiona Krüger here.
